Barshu for pre-theatre Chinese in London

Gong Bao prawns with cashew nuts at Barshu in London. Photo: StageZine.

Barshu
28 Frith St
London W1D 5LF
United Kingdom
+44 20 7287 8822
https://barshurestaurant.co.uk/
Reservations: opentable.co.uk

By Scott Harrah

LONDON—Barshu is an institution in London, and for good reason.  Known for its spicy Sichuan food served in a Soho restaurant full of Chinese lanterns and Asian wooden decorations, this is the perfect place for a nice Chinese meal before or after a West End show.

We visited Barshu for the first time on our last night in London. We arrived at 5:30pm after a matinee of Back to the Future: The Musical. We were surprised Barshu was so packed and noisy at such an early hour—it is obviously popular—and fortunately, the hostess took us upstairs to the less hectic second level where we could dine in peace. For starters, our waiter suggested a cucumber dish.  It was a salad of sliced cucumbers coated with a thick green dressing. Honestly, it was not the most appetizing-looking dish but don’t let looks fool you. It is one of the best cucumber dishes you will ever eat. We could have devoured more of it for the main course. We asked what the dressing was made of and were told it was a “family secret,” so we just enjoyed it. Honestly, it was the most delicious appetizer we had the entire time in London.

In addition, we had the vegetable dumplings—small pieces of veggie-filled dough covered with a spicy chili oil and sprinkled with sesame seeds. These were light and fluffy, and the chili oil gave the dumplings a unique flavor without being too hot. We also tried the fish-fragrant prawns—simply lightly breaded prawns with a spicy dipping sauce. In reality, “fish fragrant” refers to the type of seasoning used and the prawns do not have a fishy taste at all. Those who aren’t fans of spicy Chinese should be forewarned that Barshu serves traditionally spicy Sichuan dishes, but none of it is anything one cannot handle. However, do ask your server about the level of spiciness because it varies from dish to dish.

For the main courses, we opted for Gong Bao prawns with cashew nuts and stir-fried chicken with black bean sauce. I split both with my dining partner.  The prawns were fresh and firm, the sauce was not too spicy and the cashew nuts gave the dish a great crunchy texture. The stir-fried chicken was sumptuous, the black bean sauce was not too overpowering, and the green and red peppers were crispy and spicy but did not burn at all.

Best of all, Barshu’s Sichuan specialties are not loaded with the MSG so prevalent in American Chinese food. Barshu is strictly upmarket and traditional Sichuan Chinese, so there is no need for them to prepare their food with anything but savory spices, chili oils and all kinds of delectable fragrant and palate-pleasing herbs. If one is looking for a hearty, authentic Sichuan meal in Soho, Barshu is a wise choice.

Published July 24, 2022
Reviewed in London on June 16, 2022

Barshu’s cucumbers made with a secret recipe. Don’t let looks fool you as this is one of the best Chinese appetizers you will ever taste. Photo: StageZine.

Vegetable dumplings at Barshu. Photo: StageZine.

Fish-fragrant prawns at Barshu. Photo: StageZine.

Stir-fried chicken with black bean sauce at Barshu. Photo: StageZine.