Balthazar London is a pre-theatre must

Balthazar’s renowned steak frites—the dish that made them famous in NY. Photo: StageZine.

Balthazar London
4-6 Russell St.
London
WC2B 5HZ
United Kingdom
balthazarlondon.com
+44 20 3301 1155

Reservations: capricebookings.com

By Scott Harrah

LONDON—I’ve been a fan of Balthazar in New York for as long as it’s been open down in SoHo. The classic French Brasserie in Manhattan used to be the “in” place in the city—it was nearly impossible to get a reservation when it first opened back in 1997 (and is still busy on weekends in 2022). StageZine has visited London annually since 2015 to review West End shows and great pre-theatre restaurants, but the pandemic forced us to stay home the past two years. When we were booking our return to London, I was thrilled to learn about the London Balthazar and knew we had to give it a try.

Comparisons between the London Balthazar and the one in New York are inevitable, but I never thought it could live up to the one back home. I was wrong. Balthazar London has many similarities to New York’s but is actually better in most respects. Located in Covent Garden near the Theatre Royal, Drury Lane and Royal Opera House, it is right in the heart of the touristy theatre district but that’s not a bad thing, especially if one is dining here before catching a show. Balthazar London seems slightly bigger, roomier, not as cramped between tables and not as crazy as the one in New York, but has a better energy and vibe. Its scenic view of Covent Garden is marvelous, and it is great to see people having fun again outdoors.

London’s Balthazar is located in the Flower Cellars building next to the Covent Garden Piazza. We were here for a sumptuous dinner between shows and were seeing The Glass Menagerie with Amy Adams that night, so we did not have much time to marvel at the surroundings. The service was fast and courteous, and our waitress was simply lovely.

I started with a glass of merlot and the baby gem salad, with lettuce, tomato, avocado, asparagus, mixed herbs and champagne vinaigrette. The salad was fresh and summery, and the dressing was light and not overpowering. The avocados were sliced right on top of the salad beautifully. The wine was outstanding as well.

My dining partner opted for saumon fumé au chêne (oak-smoked salmon), served with capers, rocket, butter and granary toast. He said the salmon was fresh, firm, wonderfully smoked and unbelievably savory.

I chose my all-time favorite, steak frites, for the main course. This is what Balthazar is famous for, of course. It was eight ounces of tender beef cooked medium rare, just the way I like it, with a béarnaise sauce. One didn’t need to use much of the sauce because the steak was so good and hearty. The steak is entrecôte, which we simply call a “rib eye” in the USA, but it was as tender as any filet mignon. The frites were crisp and perfectly browned, with just a bit of salt.

My partner enjoyed the grilled lobster with garlic butter and chips. He said it could not be fresher and was grilled to perfection.

To finish off the meal, I was really too stuffed for dessert but decided to enjoy a light raspberry sorbet served with a cookie. It went great with a cup of café Americano and was the perfect ending to a great pre-theatre meal. Balthazar London is truly a great sister restaurant to the New York institution and we cannot wait to return next year while in London.

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published July 22, 2022
Reviewed on June 15, 2022 in London