Tamarind Kitchen for upmarket Indian cuisine in London

A selection of specialties at Tamarind Kitchen, including (top) phav bhaji, a spiced vegetable curry served with spiced vegetables, fresh lemon & homemade methi milk bread. Lower left is biriyani, cooked with saffron rice, Tellicherry black pepper-spiced chicken, sealed under homemade flaky pastry.  Lower right is keema pav, lamb mince with spices & served with buttered masala pav. Photos courtesy of Tamarind Kitchen.

TAMARIND KITCHEN
167-169 Wardour Street
London, United Kingdom, W1F 8WR
Phone: 020 7287 4243
www.tamarindkitchen.co.uk

By Scott Harrah

LONDON—It’s often said the best Indian food outside of Mumbai is in London, and that’s certainly true in the case of Tamarind Kitchen, an upmarket Indian restaurant in Soho that’s a laid-back sister to a more formal location in posh Mayfair. It is right in the middle of Theatreland so it’s a great place for a quick bite before a West End show. Although it’s been open for five years, Tamarind Kitchen in Soho is still obviously a hotspot for Londoners and tourists alike because the place was packed on the Sunday evening we visited. With its dim lighting, wood paneling and upholstered furniture, the place has a unique vibe. It’s great for either an evening out or a pre-theatre dinner.

Americans are used to the hearty samosas and chicken tikka masala served in Indian restaurants back home, but Tamarind Kitchen offers a unique and more authentic twist on Indian food.  It is far less heavy than the greasy chicken tikka masala we get in New York, often served over rice.  Tamanrind Kitchen offers a healthier version of Indian specialties.

We started with a lychee cocktail that they normally serve with gin, but we opted for no alcohol because we were still jet-lagged after the long flight to Heathrow from JFK. Next, we had avocado chaat, a summery blend of sliced mango and avocado, in a tangy sauce served on top of small lettuce pieces. It was light and refreshing.  Next was raj kachori (mini wheat puris filled with various goodies), followed by black pepper chicken tikka. The chicken was filled with delightful chunks of black pepper that gave the meat the right amount of spice.

The chargrilled sea bass appetizer, with coconut and red chili glaze, was sweet but mildly spicy and just divine and not “ fishy” tasting at all (I’m not normally a big fish fan).  Best of all were the wild tandoori prawns, made from huge crustaceans flown in fresh from Nigeria. Meaty and perfectly spiced, they were gigantic, succulent and—dare I say it?—one of the best prawn dishes you’ll find on either side of the Atlantic.

For mains, we opted for the sinfully scrumptious butter chicken—gorgeous chunks of tender chicken breast floating in a buttery, tangy tomato cream sauce, and coastal prawns curry, served with light, fluffy naan bread instead of the heavy rice one usually gets in New York.  We especially enjoyed the kaali dal (house dal) black lentil sauce, which simmers all day in the kitchen and is a specialty at Tamarind Kitchen, according to our waiter. You’ve never tasted anything from the subcontinent as good as this. It is great for dipping in the naan.

We were especially impressed by the hospitality of General Manager Vipin Magoon and our waiter. Unfortunately we did not get our waiter’s name but he went above and beyond what any waiter normally does and made our visit especially memorable.

A scrumptious mango kulfi ice cream was served for dessert. It was light with a wonderfully summery mango taste — a great ending to a wonderful meal. If you love Indian cuisine and plan to visit London soon, Tamarind Kitchen should be at the top of your list of restaurants to visit.

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published July 13, 2022
Reviewed on June 12, 2022 in London

Avocado chaat at Tamarind Kitchen. Photo: StageZine.

Chargrilled sea bass at Tamarind Kitchen. Photo: StageZine.

Raj kachori, mini puri filled with crunchy shells & covered in yogurt, tamarind & mint chutney. Photo: StageZine.

Delicious mango kulfi ice cream. Photo: StageZine.

A mixed platter of black pepper chicken tikka, lamb seekh kebab & wild prawns with a spicy dipping sauce. Photo: Courtesy of Tamarind Kitchen.

Phav bhaji, a chunky, buttery spiced vegetable curry served with fresh lemon with rolls. Photo courtesy of Tamarind Kitchen.

Tamarind Kitchen has a wide selection of cocktails & non-alcoholic cocktails available. Pictured is the Jasmine Club cocktail, with house-infused Beefeater gin, peach, rose & lemon. Photo: Courtesy of Tamarind Kitchen.