J. Sheekey Atlantic Bar: Seafood institution near West End theatres. Photo: Paul Winch-Furness HR

J. SHEEKEY ATLANTIC BAR
33-35 St Martin’s Court
London, United Kingdom
WC2N 4AL
(020 7420 9865)
https://www.jsheekeyatlanticbar.co.uk/

By Scott Harrah

Seafood is not the first thing that comes to mind when dining out in London, but J. Sheekey Atlantic Bar, located between Leicester Square and Covent Garden, is a great place for fresh prawns, oysters, seared octopus, scallops and more before or after a West End show. In fact, J. Sheekey has a rich history of serving seafood to theatre-loving Londoners since the late 19^th century.

J. Sheekey Atlantic Bar, a more relaxed sister restaurant to the venerable J. Sheekey restaurant next door (in business since 1896), celebrates its 10^th anniversary this year and has become a staple for pre- and post-theatre dining with its wide selection of fish, shellfish, salads and more. The older J. Sheekey started serving seafood in St. Martin’s Court in the late 1800s under the condition that dinner must be served to Prime Minister Lord Salisbury and his friends. The Atlantic Bar restaurant offers both indoor dining and a comfortable outdoor terrace for al fresco dining during warm summer nights.

During our recent visit to the British capital to review West End shows, we stopped by for a pre-theatre bite. We opted to mostly enjoy the prawns available and started with the Crab, Prawn and Avocado Salad, served with grated Parmesan cheese, crunchy croutons and a spiced cocktail sauce. This was a great summery starter and much like a Caesar salad with a twist. Next up was a half pint of Atlantic Prawns, served with the deliciously tangy Marie Rose Sauce (a savory blend of mayonnaise, ketchup, Tabasco, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice and cognac). The sauce really brought out the freshness of the prawns and did not overpower the taste too much. The prawns (or “shrimp” as we call them in many parts of the USA) come with the shell still intact, so eating them requires some work, but it’s well worth it. A fine wine list compliments the menu.

For the main course, we split two entrees: Seared Tiger Prawns with “bang bang roasted peanut sauce,” and the succulent Prawn Tempura served with spicy chili jam. The Prawn Tempura was among the best we’ve ever had: lightly battered, helping enhance the flavor of the giant prawns without being overbearing. We also indulged in a side of chips (fries), so hot and salty and one of the best we’ve had in Europe.

For dessert, we tried the honeycomb ice cream with chocolate sauce. The ice cream had a smooth, honey-infused texture, topped with decadent chocolate sauce and with several crunchy biscuits. We also indulged in a coffee with the raspberry parfait with buttermilk crunch, a perfect end to a light pre-theatre meal.

The staff at J. Sheekey Atlantic Bar is also noteworthy, from the people greeting one at the door to our friendly waiter who explained everything on the menu in great detail.

Although seafood is not often what one thinks of when dining in London, Britain is, after all, an island, and J. Sheekey has some of the best seafood we’ve had in this part of Europe. From seared octopus to crab cakes, oysters and salmon to the famous Sheekey’s Fish Pie (a favorite among theatregoers, served post-theatre with a glass of house wine for £19.75), J. Sheekey should not be missed on your next visit to London.

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published June 30, 2018
Reviewed on June 21, 2018 in London

Atlantic prawns: Absolutely superb, with the great Marie Rose sauce. Photo: Scott Harrah

Seared Tiger prawns with bang bang peanut sauce. Photo: Scott Harrah

Prawn Tempura with chili jam. Photo: Scott Harrah

Honeycomb ice cream with chocolate sauce. Photo:: Scott Harrah

Outdoor dining at J. Sheekey Atlantic Bar in London. Photo: Paul Winch-Furness HR

Fish Pie: A standard at J. Sheekey Atlantic Bar. Photo: Courtesy of J. Sheekey’s Atlantic Bar.

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LOBBY BAR: One Aldwych features a variety of ‘Showtime Cocktails,’ inspired by theatre classics from Shakespeare to Chekhov. Photo: Courtesy of One Aldwych

INDIGO RESTAURANT & THE LOBBY BAR
Inside One Aldwych Hotel
One Aldwych
London, United Kingdom
WC2B 4BZ
020-7300 1000, http://www.onealdwych.com/food-drink/indigo

By Scott Harrah

LONDON–We visited Indigo at One Aldwych (inside the renowned luxury hotel in Covent Garden) for a pre-theatre dinner between shows during our recent London visit. This was our second time at Indigo (we first visited back in 2015). This year we started off with a drink at The Lobby Bar, offering theatrical-themed “Showtime Cocktails.”

The experience begins at the bright and airy bar with its high ceiling from the moment one arrives. Pedro Paulo, The Lobby Bar Manager, was kind enough to explain the “Showtime Cocktails” that he and his talented team of mixologists created.

We were given a clever little menu that broke down the drinks available into “Comedies,” “Musicals,” “Satires,” “Dramas” and “Backstage.”  For “Comedies,” choose from the Fairy Garden Fusion (inspired by A Midsummer Night’s Dream) containing Hendrick’s gin, Taylor’s Chip Dry White Port, Coriander Bitters and Rose Lemonade (£ 16).  My dining partner chose “Dionysus” (inspired by Cyclops), containing Havana Club 7-Year-Old Rum, Crème de Pêche, fresh lemon juice, Aperol, fresh blood orange juice and homemade watermelon syrup, served in a special Dionysus cup (£ 16).  He said it was very sweet and tropical and the rum was strong.

SHOWTIME COCKTAILS: (left to right) The Dionysus (inspired by ‘Cyclops’) & The Holy Mary (inspired by ‘The Book of Mormon’) at The Lobby Bar at One Aldwych. Photo: Scott Harrah

I chose The Holy Mary (inspired by The Book of Mormon), made with Stolichnaya Elit Vodka, fresh tomato juice, strawberry liqueur, strawberry puree, Yuzu bitters and hibiscus foam (£ 16).  The drink was a unique twist on the classic bloody Mary, and the sweetness of the strawberry was a nice contrast to the tomato juice and vodka. We especially enjoyed the tasty olives sitting on the table.

One drink we did not try (because we’re not whisky fans) was The Origin, created by Mr. Pedro. This drink, made with Dalmore 12-year-old whisky, Merlet Cherry liqueur, cherry puree, fresh grapefruit juice, chocolate bitters and Lallier Champagne, allows people to “take a trip to the Highlands to discover the tastes behind the cocktail.” Guests are given virtual reality goggles and a headset and take a high-tech trip up to Scotland to visit the distillery where the whisky is aged (£ 18).

The cocktails are a wonderful prelude to the pre-theatre dinner at Indigo, the restaurant also located inside the hotel. With British dishes created by Executive Chef Dominic Teague, everything at Indigo is gluten and dairy-free (but not prepared in a dedicated gluten and dairy-free kitchen). Two courses are £22 and £27 for three.  The pre-theatre fare is light and perfect for a quick but satisfying, healthy meal before a show. The menu is constantly changing and seasonal, and one hardly notices that everything is gluten-free.

For the starter, I chose the pea soup, made with a poached Buford Brown hen’s egg and mint oil. It was marvelously summery, without the heavy additives like salt, ham and croutons often served in American versions. This pea soup is noted by Indigo as being suitable for vegetarians.

For my main course, I opted for the pork tenderloin, and it was succulent and tender and not greasy. The pork came served with a spicy chorizo, a tasty touch. This went great with a lovely glass of Malbec wine.

My friend had a Cornish pollack, served with Muscat grapes, almond and coastal herbs, and he said it was light but filling.

For dessert, we both had the strawberry pavlova, served with strawberry and basil ice cream. The pavlova has a heavenly meringue base and is served with a decadent syrupy sauce.

Indigo offers one of the most unique and health-conscious pre-theatre dinners in London’s Theatreland for those with special dietary requirements, and for anyone looking for an upmarket dining experience before heading off to a West End show.

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published July 8, 2017
Reviewed on June 24, 2017 in London

PORK TENDERLOIN: Served with a spicy chorizo at Indigo at One Aldwych. Photo: Scott Harrah

PEA SOUP: The first pre-theatre course at Indigo. Photo: Scott Harrah

Quinoa salad at Indigo at One Aldwych. Photo: Courtesy of Indigo at One Aldwych

Lamb rump roast at Indigo. Photo: Courtesy of Indigo at One Aldwych.

Strawberry pavlova at Indigo at One Aldwych. Photo: www.jamesbedford.com

More ‘Showtime Cocktails’ at The Lobby Bar

‘CE SOIR’: Inspired by ‘Moulin Rouge’ & made with vodka, homemade pomegranate shrub, homemade fennel syrup, mint bitters & Lallier Champagne. At the Lobby Bar at the One Aldwych Hotel in London. Photo: www.jamesbedford.com/www.onealdwych.com

THE ORIGIN: Guests are given special goggles to take a virtual reality trip to the distillery in Scotland where the whisky is produced. At The Lobby Bar at One Aldwych, London. Photo: www.jamesbedford.com & www.onealdwych.com

ALDWYCH MULE: Called ‘a twist on the classic Moscow Mule,’ made with Absolut Elyx Vodka, elderflower liqueur, fresh lime juice, ginger beer & gooseberry jam. Inspired by ‘Is He Dead?’ At Lobby Bar at One Aldwych in London. Photo: www.jamesbedford.com & www.onealdwych.com

SHOWTIME COCKTAILS: (left to right) ‘Take a Chance On Me,’ ‘Ce Soir,’ ‘Jasmine Breeze’ & ‘The Circle of Life’. At The Lobby Bar at One Aldwych. Photo: www.jamesbedford.com & www.onealdwych.com

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HAWKSMOOR AIR STREET: Great steak & seafood, among the best in London and the U.K. Photo: Courtesy of Hawksmoor Air Street

HAWKSMOOR AIR STREET
5 Air Street
Piccadilly, Mayfair
London W1J 0AD
United Kingdom
44 20 7406 3980, http://thehawksmoor.com/locations/airstreet/

By Scott Harrah

LONDON–Hawksmoor Air Street, like all the Hawksmoor locations in London, has some of the best steak in the U.K. Two years ago we visited the Hawksmoor Seven Dials and were completely overwhelmed by the high quality of steak and seafood and the superlative service. We were anxious to try another Hawksmoor location to see if it lived up to the glories of the Seven Dials restaurant, and we were not disappointed.

Take some extra time to find the restaurant since the entrance is on a short stretch of Air Street between Piccadilly Circus and Regent Street. It is definitely worth seeking out this hidden-away Central London gem. Dining at Hawksmoor Air Street is a glorious experience from the moment one walks through the door and is greeted by the cheerful hostesses. As soon as one heads upstairs, expect to be instantly transported to a world of old-school elegance, from mirrored walls to stained-glass windows, polished veneer and banquettes. While the Seven Dials location has a pub feel, Hawksmoor Air Street is more Art Deco and a bit on the posh side, but still casual and hardly stuffy.

The menu, of course, is the star attraction at any Hawksmoor location, and Hawksmoor Air Street does not disappoint with its wide selection of seafood, juicy steaks and remarkable side dishes. There is an extensive wine list and what the British call “pre-prandials” (cocktails), from Champagne Charlie (Gin, lemon, seasonal fruit syrup and Champagne) for £12.50 to Messenger’s Tonic (Gin, Lillet Blanc, Sherry and tonic cocktail) for £10 to the Hawksmoor Collins (Gin, lemon, Campari, bitters and soda) for £9.75.

Roast scallops, with white port & garlic is a great starter. Photo: Scott Harrah

For starters, choose from roast scallops with white port and garlic, potted smoked mackerel, smoked salmon, Half Dartmouth lobster (£5.00/100h). Old Spot belly ribs, potted beef with bacon and Yorkshires, filet carpaccio with porcini, Parmesan and scallops, Evesham asparagus, buttered or hollandaise; Kohlrabi salad with celery hearts and spenwood cheese; and Doddington Caesar.

Steaks are the main reason to come to the Hawksmoor Air Street. From Chateaubriand (£13.00/100g) to Porterhouse (£9.25/100g); T-bone (£8.25/100g); bone-in prime rib (£8.25/100g) to filet (300g) for £35.00; sirloin (400g) for £29.50; Rib-eye (400g) for £31.50; rump (300g) for £19.50. Plus, sides such as maple bacon for £4.25; two fried eggs for £3.00; grilled bone marrow for £4.50. and a half Dartmouth lobster for £5.00/100g. Steaks all come with a fabulous choice of sauces: Peppercorn, bone marrow gravy, Anchovy hollandaise or Stichelton hollandaise.

However, seafood lovers will not be disappointed. Choose from turbot (grilled over charcoal) for £13.00 for 100g or royal bream, baked in paper with garlic, rosemary, and chili, for just £20. Dover sole, grilled over charcoal or Meuniere, is £36. Monkfish, grilled over charcoal, is £24 to £48.

Juicy and tender Chateaubriand served with a side of mashed potatoes & gravy. Photo: Scott Harrah

Being a carnivore who loves good steak, I asked our pleasant and helpful waiter Jordan to recommend the best steak,and he suggested the Chateaubriand, served medium rare, with the savory peppercorn sauce. He also insisted I try the roast scallops with white port and garlic and a side of beef dripping fries and mashed potatoes and gravy for my main course. I ordered a glass of lovely Malbec that went great with everything. The scallops were fresh and succulent, and the Chateaubriand was outstanding—a tender chunk of thick, lean but slightly marbled Nirvana.

Hawksmoor smoked salmon as a starter. Photo: Scott Harrah

My dining partner was feeling a bit under the weather and was not in the mood for a heavy steak, so Jordan suggested the sea bream with Jersey Royal potatoes. He enjoyed the sea bream and found it light fare for a hot British summer night. For a starter, he chose the light and flavorful Hawksmoor smoked salmon.

The Hawksmoor Air Street includes an Express Menu (Pre-Theatre) with two courses for £25 and three courses for £28 . Starters include potted smoked mackerel, potted beef and bacon with Yorkshires or Kohlrabi salad with celery hearts and spenwood cheese. Main courses include Royal bream with garlic, rosemary and and chili, or ash-baked root vegetables with spelt (known as hulled wheat in the USA) and curd’s cow. Choose from one of the following sides: Triple-cooked chips; baked sweet potato, creamed spinach or lettuce and herb salad. For dessert (puddings), try peanut butter shortbread, sticky toffee pudding or passion-fruit cheesecake.

Sides are also something one simply cannot miss at Hawksmoor Air Street, from the beef dripping fries (£4.50) to triple-cooked chips (£4.50); mashed potatoes and gravy (£4.50); Jersey Royals (£5) to baked sweet potato (£4). Also look for macaroni and cheese (£5.50); creamed spinach (£5.50); spinach, lemon and garlic (£5.25); roasted field mushrooms (£4). plus a selection of salads for £4.

We loved the beef dripping fries and the mashed potatoes and gravy, as well as the Jersey Royals (we couldn’t decide which we liked best as they were all superb). This reviewer is proud to be of Irish-American extraction, so I will eat and relish potatoes of any type, shape or form.

Sticky toffee pudding with warm clotted cream. Nobody does it better than Hawksmoor. Photo: Scott Harrah

For dessert, we both split an order of the Hawksmoor’s famous sticky toffee pudding with warm, sinful clotted cream. Just like at the Seven Dials location, the Hawksmoor Air Street’s sticky toffee pudding is among the best you will find in London, if not all of England. The dessert is not well known in America but it is a British staple, consisting of a rich sponge cake filled with chopped dates and sultanas, topped with either ice cream or warm clotted cream. The Hawksmoor’s version is served with the latter and it is decadently divine. It goes exquisitely with a cup of American coffee or espresso.

Now that we’ve enjoyed two different Hawksmoor locations in London, we’re convinced nobody does steak and upmarket British comfort food quite like the Hawksmoor. They truly have some of the best steak and service of anywhere in the U.K. If you visit London this summer or autumn, be sure to try one of the Hawksmoor restaurants. Hawksmoor is great for both pre-theatre dinner or a long, leisurely meal out in the British capital.

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published July 4, 2017
Reviewed on June 23, 2017 in London

HAWKSMOOR AIR STREET: Grass-fed, bone-in prime rib. Photo: Courtesy of Hawksmoor Air Street

HAWKSMOOR AIR STREET: Cocktails. Photo: Courtesy of Hawksmoor Air Street

HAWKSMOOR AIR STREET: Great fish dishes. Photo: Courtesy of Hawksmoor Air Street

HAWKSMOOR AIR STREET: Stained glassed windows in a gorgeous Art Deco setting in the Piccadilly/Mayfair area of London. Photo: Courtesy of Hawksmoor Air Street

HAWKSMOOR AIR STREET: Bar with great pre-theatre cocktails. Photo: Courtesy of Hawksmoor Air Street

HAWKSMOOR AIR STREET: Cozy yet upmarket atmosphere. Photo: Courtesy of Hawksmoor Air Street

FABULOUS STEAK & SEAFOOD: Some offerings at Hawksmoor Air Street. Photo: Courtesy of Hawksmoor Air Street

HAWKSMOOR AIR STREET: Conveniently located near all the theatres in Piccadilly Circus/Mayfair. Photo: Courtesy of Hawksmoor Air Street

HAWKSMOOR AIR STREET: The interior. Photo: Courtesy of Hawksmoor Air Street

HAWKSMOOR AIR STREET: Interior with stained glass windows. Photo: Courtesy of Hawksmoor Air Street

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BRITISH TWIST ON BARBECUE: Blacklock Soho in London has excellent pork, beef & lamb chops, beef dripping fries & more. Photo: Courtesy of Blacklock Soho

BLACKLOCK SOHO
24 Great Windmill Street, Soho
London W1D 7LG
United Kingdom
44 20 3441 6996, http://theblacklock.com/soho/

By Scott Harrah

LONDON–Blacklock Soho offers a British twist on an American classic, barbecue. The Soho institution, in walking distance to all West End theatres, is a carnivore’s paradise.

Located in a basement in Soho on Great Windmill Street, Blacklock has a casual, pub-style vibe. We popped in during our London visit between shows for a quick pre-theatre bite. A friendly Canadian waiter greeted us and explained the menu.

Blacklock has an extensive drink menu with “cocktails for a fiver,” including Grandma’s Spiked Lemonade (Madeira, sloe gin, lemon, Earl Grey), Pink Lady (cider brandy, cider syrup, lemon, prosecco), a variety of beers, and both red and white wine on tap and by the glass. We opted for a lovely glass of Black Sheep, Merlot from France. There are many more wines and cocktails; just ask when you visit.

Blacklock features pre-chop bites served on crackers, including Colston basset blue cheese and pickle, slow-cooked pig’s head and Kimchee (we dare you to try it), and egg and anchovy with kewpie mayo, egg and Spanish anchovy. We weren’t sure just exactly what all the pre-chop bites were, but we devoured them with delight regardless.

Pre-chop bites at Blacklock Soho. Photo: Scott Harrah

The meat selection includes “Skinny Chops,” consisting of beef rump, lamb cutlet, lamb T-bone, pork loin, pork rib and pork belly. “Big Chops” feature beef (Porterhouse, prime rib, 8/10g), bone-in sirloin (7/100g); lamb (Barnsley, 5.5/100g); and pork (Tomahawk, 5/100g).  One can see the daily specials scribbled on giant blackboards throughout the place. We got a bit overwhelmed and opted for the “All in,” with pre-chop bites, all of the daily Skinny Chops on the chargrilled flatbread for sharing (minimum of two people or more), served with a side each for 20 pounds per person.

Sides include the outstanding beef dripping chips (fries); the 10-hour ash-roasted sweet potato; a delicious kale and Parmesan salad; and a summer salad. One may also choose the heritage tomato salad; BBQ baby gems with anchovy dripping; and charred couchettes with chicory and Stilton.  Good kale is not something one looks for in London, but the kale and Parmesan salad at Blacklock was truly phenomenal.

(Top left to right): Beef dripping fries, summer salad, kale & Parmesan salad; (bottom left) Blacklock’s fabulous sweet potato. Photo: Scott Harrah

The beef dripping chips were crispy and light. We were especially impressed with the ash-roasted sweet potato. As Americans, we were apprehensive about just how sweet potatoes–in many ways a staple of the U.S. diet (especially in the South)–would be prepared in Britain. We’ve never had a sweet potato like the one served at Blacklock. It was gloriously roasted and charred to perfection, bringing out the flavor of the sweet potato without the need for all the brown sugar and marshmallows we use in the USA. Wouldn’t it be nice if the chefs at Blacklock would share their secret for us so we could prepare 10-hour ash-roasted sweet potatoes for this year’s Thanksgiving dinner?

The main attraction at Blacklock, of course, is the meat. We hear the folks who worked with the famous Hawksmoor chain in Britain are behind Blacklock, so we knew the meat would be awesome. We have not seen a place abroad that serves up beef, pork and lamb in such a down-home, American-style. In the USA, barbecue joints from Seattle to San Diego, Kansas City to Houston, Dallas to Detroit to Memphis and Manhattan boast about their special “rubs” and sauces. Barbecue is almost a cult to some, as endless “Top 10 Best Barbecue Joints” shows on American cable TV attest. So call good barbecue-style meat a novelty in the United Kingdom if you must. The fact that Blacklock doesn’t have any signature sauce for its chops is what makes it totally unlike North American barbecue joints.

We relished the smoky, succulent pork loin, pork belly and pork rib, as well as the tender beef rump. Although we are not normally big on lamb, Blacklock’s lamb cutlet and lamb T-bone were full, moist and sumptuous, with no gamey aftertaste. The meat is piled on flatbread underneath, to soak up all the savory juices. Sauces include green sauce, chili hollandaise, béarnaise, garlic marrow spread and onions and gravy. All go great with the meat.

Blacklock Soho’s decadent white chocolate cheesecake, served with berry sauce. Photo: Scott Harrah

For dessert, we chose a seriously decadent white chocolate cheesecake that came with a sauce of divine strawberries, blueberries and sugar, served with a smile by a bubbly woman named Kelly. It was simply heavenly and a nice topper to a spectacular meal.

What’s also amazing is the fast service at Blacklock. Staff are all courteous and give helpful suggestions. For a pre-theatre carnivore’s bacchanal in a hip setting, one cannot go wrong with this place.

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published June 29, 2017
Reviewed on June 22, 2017 in London

CHOP TILL YOU DROP: Located in a basement in London’s Soho, near all West End theatres, Blacklock has great steaks & chops. Photo: Courtesy of Blacklock Soho

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(Left to right) Truffle aracini, with fried Arborio rice balls, Parmesan & Truffle & zucchini fritti. Photo: Scott Harrah

THE IVY MARKET GRILL
1 Henrietta Street
London WC2E 8PS
United Kingdom
44 20 3301 0200, https://theivymarketgrill.com/

By Scott Harrah

LONDON–We stopped by the Ivy Market Grill before catching a show and were amazed by the British brasserie’s upmarket ambiance and eclectic menu. One can choose to sit right outside in Covent Garden overlooking the famous piazza, but since it was a hot British summer day, we decided to eat indoors, in a dining room that is simplistic but elegant.

‘Bang bang chicken,’ juicy chicken bites in a spicy sauce, served on iceberg lettuce with refreshing sliced radishes, at the Ivy Market Grill, Covent Garden in London. Photo: Scott Harrah

My dining partner had the seared salmon with quinoa and a Spanish broccoli that is a much darker green (and less full in the leaves) than the type we eat back in the States. He said the salmon was tender and moist, and the broccoli made a great pairing with the fish.

Chargrilled minute steak with garlic butter, thick cut chips & watercress at the Ivy Market Grill, Covent Garden in London. Photo: Scott Harrah

Crème brûlé, a traditional vanilla custard with a caramelized sugar crust at Ivy Market Grill, London. Photo: Scott Harrah

Vanilla panna cotta, with peaches, raspberry liqueur sauce & almond tuile. At Ivy Market Grill in Covent Garden, London. Photo: Scott Harrah

The Ivy Market Grill, part of the famous Ivy Collection of establishments, was one of our favorite pre-theatre restaurants in London. Two courses for pre-theatre dinner is £ 16.50; £ 21 for three.

This restaurant should be on everyone’s “must try” list when thinking of dining in the British capital.

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published June 28, 2017
Reviewed on June 21, 2017 in London

Roasted butternut squash with grains at Ivy Market Grill, Covent Garden, London. Photo: Paul Winch-Furness

Warm flourless chocolate cake at Ivy Market Grill, Covent Garden, London. Photo: Paul Winch-Furness

The Ivy Market Grill in Covent Garden, London. Photo: Paul Winch-Furness

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Coq au Vin at Le Restaurant de PAUL in Covent Garden, London. Photo: © Giles Christopher – Media Wisdom Photography Ltd

Le Restaurant de PAUL
29 Bedford Street
London WC2E 9ED
United Kingdom
44 20 7836 3304, https://www.paul-uk.com/restaurant

By Scott Harrah

LONDON–One does not expect to find the French classic coq au vin in a French Covent Garden restaurant near all the West End theatres in London, but that’s exactly what we discovered during our visit.

This charming French restaurant is the perfect spot for a quick but delicious pre-theatre dinner before a West End show. Located on Bedford Street, Le Restaurant de PAUL is the flagship location for a popular chain of French pastry shops in the British capital, and the eatery features French culinary classics. It was our first stop in London, after a frantic week spent in roasting hot 100 degree-plus weather in Spain and Portugal. We were greeted by the fabulous, charming and bubbly waitress Alexandra at the door. She was attentive to our every need and made excellent suggestions.

First, we were served a basket of three different varieties of bread, including a delightful multi-grain bread. For our first course, Alexandra recommended the pate foie gras with chutney sauce and mini gherkin pickles and pearl onions. The pate came with warm pumpernickel bread. Alexandra suggested the Malbec Les Escures wine, a bold and rich flavorful red wine and said it would go great with the pate and the main course, coq au vin.

French food experts often say traditional coq au vin is a rooster marinated in wine. I asked Alexandra what type of chickens are used in Le Restaurant de PAUL’s coq qu vin and she said they use the finest free-range chicken. First, she brought out warm plates with a generous serving of mashed potatoes on each. Next, bowls of the coq au vin were served covered in a delicious wine sauce. The chicken was tender and perfectly marinated. Although it was filling, it was also light enough for a hot summer night before catching a show.

For dessert, my dining partner opted for the tarte myrtilles slice, a scrumptious pie of berries with a buttery crust, served with savory vanilla glace boule (ice cream). I chose the scrumptious cappuccino, served with three sinfully sweet, delicious macaroons.

Prices for the pre-theatre three-course gourmand dinner are reasonable at 15 pounds per person, and truly amazing considering that such exquisitely prepared French food can be found in London’s West End at affordable rates.

Whether you are leaving or entering the restaurant, there is a lovely confectionary with all sorts of pastries, tarts and sweet delights to either enjoy at the restaurant or for take away.

Published June 22, 2017

Dined at restaurant on June 20, 2017

Great French wines on display at Le Restaurant de PAUL, London. Photo: Scott Harrah

Cappuccino served with three marvelous macaroons. Photo: Scott Harrah

Le Restaurant de Paul in Covent Garden, London. Photo: © Giles Christopher – Media Wisdom Photography Ltd

A dining area at Le Restaurant de PAUL in Covent Garden, London. © Giles Christopher – Media Wisdom Photography Ltd

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A POSH SPOT FOR DINNER: Indigo at One Aldwych in London. Photo: Courtesy of Indigo at One Aldwych.

INDIGO RESTAURANT
Inside One Aldwych Hotel
One Aldwych
London, United Kingdom
WC2B 4BZ
020-7300 1000, http://www.onealdwych.com/food-drink/indigo

By Scott Harrah

Looking for a great pre-theatre dinner in London’s West End? Indigo is an elegant place for a quick bite, with a unique twist on classic British cuisine. Located inside the posh five-star One Aldwych Hotel in Covent Garden, Indigo is within walking distance to all the beautiful theatres in Central London.

Recently renovated back in April to the specifications of executive chef Dominic Teague, with a new state-of-the-art kitchen, Indigo is located above the downstairs bar area and is a great place to relax with a cocktail, a glass of wine and a quick but hearty, healthy meal before dashing off to a show.

During our recent week visiting London to review West End shows, we stopped at Indigo to sample their excellent “set menu.” Everything on the lunch and dinner menus is gluten-free (important for those on restricted diets) and the menu carefully notes which dishes are strictly vegetarian and which contain nuts. In addition, the bread baked in-house is also gluten-free. The restaurant uses carefully sourced ingredients from the British Isles, from healthy dishes to heartier fare.

DIVINE CHOICES: (left) organic lamb rump, samphire, smoked aubergine, capers & anchovy & (right) fillet of halibut, marinated heritage tomatoes, Jersey Royals & black olives at Indigo at One Aldwych. Photo: Courtesy of Indigo at One Aldwych.

LEEK SOUP: With potatoes & wild garlic. A great starter at Indigo. Photo: Scott Harrah

The starters include leek soup (potato and wild garlic); crispy confit duck leg (with pickled heritage carrots and truffle honey vinaigrette); and cured Scottish salmon (with apple, dill and crab apple blossom). The leek soup is light and the perfect appetizer on a warm summer evening. My dining companion chose the Scottish salmon, which he said was delicious, particularly with the flavor of the dill and apple.

BEER-BATTERED DAY BOAT FISH: With hand-cut chips, crushed peas & tartare sauce. Photo: Courtesy of Indigo at One Aldwych.

BREAST OF CORN-FED CHICKEN (with buckwheat, broad beans and girolles) at Indigo at One Aldwych. Photo: Scott Harrah

Mains include breast of corn-fed chicken (with buckwheat, broad beans and girolles); pan-fried Brixham plaice on the bone (samphire, wild fennel, tomato and lemon); and roasted cauliflower (with toasted pumpkin seeds, aged balsamic and sea purslane). We opted for the chicken, which was delightfully served as perfectly carved chicken breasts over the buckwheat, beans and girolles (British mushrooms with a faint flavor of apricot, a perfect complement to the chicken).

QUINOA: Served with peas, broad beans, smoked almonds. Photo: Courtesy of Indigo at One Aldwych.

For dessert, choose from Valrhona chocolate mousse with English raspberries; flat peach (almond, white peach sorbet); and rice milk panna cotta (with poached rhubarb).

For the set menu, it’s 20 pounds for two courses and 25 pounds for three.

We’re especially grateful to Nicholas Kerle, Assistant Restaurant Manager at Indigo at One Aldwych. Mr. Kerle answered all our questions about the food, took our orders and made certain we had a pleasant dinner.

Indigo has a relaxing ambiance, situated above the bar, so you can dine and look down at the panoramic view of the place. Indigo is trendy but not at all pretentious, the food is of excellent quality, and the pre-theatre menu is certainly affordable. Quite simply, Indigo at One Aldwych is pre-theatre bliss.

PRE-THEATRE TREAT: (top) halibut & (bottom) lamb rump. Photo: Courtesy of Indigo at One Aldwych.

CHOCOLATE MOUSSE: Decadent delight. Photo: Courtesy of Indigo at One Aldwych.

RASPBERRY PAVLOVA: For two to share. Photo: Courtesy of Indigo at One Aldwych.

PINEAPPLE CARPACCIO: With coconut sorbet & lime. Photo: Courtesy of Indigo at One Aldwych.

INDIGO AT ONE ALDWYCH: View from table, looking at the bar downstairs. Photo: Scott Harrah

CURED SCOTTISH SALMON: Served with apple, dill & crab apple blossom at Indigo at One Aldwych. Photo: Scott Harrah

VALRHONA CHOCOLATE MOUSSE: Served with English raspberries at Indigo at One Aldwych. Photo: Scott Harrah

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published July 20, 2015
Reviewed in London on June 16, 2015

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By Scott Harrah

Indian food in London in nothing out of the ordinary, but Dishoom in Covent Garden offers Indian food with a unique twist: Indian breakfast with a Persian accent.

Modeled after the original Bombay Cafes in India, back when the city was actually called Bombay (not Mumbai), Dishoom is a Parsi café (Parsis were Zoroastrians who immigrated to India from Iran in the 19th century). The cafes reached their peak at approximately 500 in the 1950s, after India gained its independence, but have now dwindled to “fewer than 30.” Dishoom pays tribute to these multicultural tea rooms of the subcontinent.

Reading the menu at Dishoom explains everything you need to know, as many items contain a short history lesson about Parsi cuisine and culture in India. The breakfast menu contains the following under Cooked Breakfasts: “The Parsi bodybuilders—whose portraits hang from the walls of Yazdani café—famously consumed several eggs a day to attain their muscular physiques. These breakfasts would satisfy any candidate for the coveted Mr. Zoroastrian crown.”

HEARTY PARSI-STYLE EGGS, TOAST & BACON: Kejriwal, described as “two fried eggs on chili cheese toast,” served with three rashers of bacon. Photo: Scott Harrah

On a mid-June morning, we stopped in for coffee, orange juice and Kejriwal, described as “two fried eggs on chili cheese toast. A favourite of the well-to-do Willington Club, the first such Bombay institution to admit natives; the dish is reputedly named for the member who kept asking for it. (Not to be confused with Arvind Kejriwal, leader of India’s Aam Aadmi—common man’s political party.)”

The eggs were spicy, a bit on the greasy side, with dark orange yolks (all egg dishes are made with Buford Brown eggs, a type of British egg from a breed of chicken that lays dark brown eggs with a thick shell).

Other breakfast choices include the Bombay omelette (with chopped tomato, onion, coriander and green chili, served with grilled tomato and fire toast). There is also Akuri, spicy scrambled eggs with pau beans and grilled tomato.

We also tried three rashers of bacon (supplied by The Ginger Pig). The bacon was hearty and meatier than the American bacon with which we’re familiar. Those looking for something lighter can choose from masala beans, grilled tomato and grilled mushrooms as a side.

One can also enjoy Dishoom’s naan rolls. Choose from the bacon naan roll, sausage naan roll and the egg naan roll.

Those not into eggs can enjoy a variety of fruit, grains and breads. Choose from fruit and yogurt (with fresh mango, grapes, strawberries and honeydew melon) and “topped with creamy yogurt infused with Keralan vanilla pod, and the London Honey Co’s excellent Buckinghamshire honey.” Also, there is house granola; bun maska, “to be dipped into your spicy chai”; and fire toast, “thick slices of bloomer bread, buttered and thrown onto the grill where they become char-striped,” served with pineapple-pink peppercorn jam and orange marmalade with star anise.

Best of all, almost everything is under 10 pounds, so you can have a filling breakfast without breaking your budget.

Unfortunately, we were not able to try Dishoom for dinner because they do not accept reservations for small groups. Reservations are taken after 5:45pm for groups of 6 or more. However, reservations for groups of any size are taken for breakfast and lunch.

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published July 9, 2015
Reviewed in London on June 18, 2015

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PRE-THEATRE GEM IN COVENT GARDEN: The Hawksmoor Seven Dials. Photo: Courtesy of Hawksmoor Seven Dials

HAWKSMOOR SEVEN DIALS
11 Langley Street
London, United Kingdom
WC2H 9JG
020 7420 9390, http://thehawksmoor.com/locations/seven-dials/

By Scott Harrah

One doesn’t normally think of London as a city to find great steak, but the pre-theatre crowd need look no further than Hawksmoor Seven Dials in Covent Garden. Located in an old fruit warehouse, the place has the feel of an upscale but casual pub, but there’s nothing “pub like” about the food because here you will find some of the best steak and seafood in London, and possibly, the United Kingdom.

There’s a nice pre-prandials menu, with a fancy gin cocktail, sherry crusta and the Hawksmoor Collins (gin, lemon, Campari, bitters and soda), but a glass of wine also goes well with what you’re about to enjoy.

The Hawksmoor also has excellent service from the moment one walks in the door. James was our waiter, and he was kind enough to explain many of the British specialties on the menu with which we were unfamiliar. His friendliness and professionalism really enhanced our experience at the restaurant.

For starters, choose from Brixham crab on toast, Hawksmoor smoked salmon with soda bread, half a native lobster (from waters around the U.K., such as Cornwall and Scotland) with garlic butter, shrimps on toast, roast scallops with white port and garlic, potted beef and bacon with Yorkshires, Evesham asparagus with duck egg hollandaise, steak tartare, bone marrow with onions, Tamworth belly ribs or salads.

HALF A NATIVE LOBSTER: Served with garlic butter. Native lobster is found in the cold waters off Cornwall & Scotland. Photo: Scott Harrah

We started with the half a native lobster, which was absolutely scrumptious. British lobster tastes similar to Maine or Nova Scotia lobster but has a slightly different consistency, yet is delightful nonetheless. Next, we dug into the light and tasty roast scallops with white port and garlic. It was a great prelude to the steak.

ROAST SCALLOPS: With white port & garlic. Photo: Scott Harrah

The Hawksmoor is famous for its steaks, and you can choose from bone-in prime rib, porterhouse, T-Bone and Chateaubriand (all three of which are big portions, so sharing is recommended). There is also bone-in sirloin (500 grams), rib-eye (400 grams) and D-rump (300 grams), aged 55 days. We each chose the fillet (300 grams) because our waiter, James, said it was the right size for people to eat individually. Having been raised in the American Midwest, I know a thing or two about great steak, but I never thought I’d eat one this tender and succulent in the U.K. It melted in my mouth. James suggested the Jersey Royals potatoes as a side dish and they were also excellent.

FILLET STEAK: 300g & tender & succulent. Photo: Scott Harrah

For a side with the steak, one can choose from grilled bone marrow, two fried eggs or maple bacon.

If you’re not a carnivore, the Hawksmoor also has whole sea bream with chili, rosemary and garlic, and a larger native lobster grilled with garlic butter, as well as ricotta dumplings with spring vegetables.

BEEF DRIPPING FRIES & SAUCES: Choose from Bearnaise, peppercorn, bone marrow gravy, anchovy Hollandaise or stilton Hollandaise. Photo: Scott Harrah

We were curious about the beef dripping fries because the name itself is not something most Americans know. Our waiter insisted that we try them, and it is a good thing he did. The fries were crisp and perfectly cooked, and didn’t taste fatty or greasy at all. We ordered a selection of sauces: Béarnaise, peppercorn, bone marrow gravy, anchovy hollandaise, stilton hollandaise. The steak was so good we didn’t want to put the sauces on the meat, so instead we used the delicious liquid as something in which to dip our fries.

Other sides available are triple-cooked chips, roast field mushrooms, Doddington Caesar salad and English lettuce and herb salad.

To top off this outstanding meal, our waiter suggested the sticky toffee pudding with clotted cream. We had only seen this very British dessert on TV cooking shows but had never tried it. After trying it, we’re fans of the fattening treat. Sticky toffee pudding, James explained, is a steamed sponge cake filled with chopped dates and covered with a toffee sauce. Some British chefs put vanilla ice cream on top, but the Hawksmoor puts a generous scoop of clotted cream on top, which is sinfully delicious. Clotted cream, for those Americans who have never tried it, is sometimes called Devonshire or Cornish cream and is made by heating full cow’s milk cream and then leaving it to cool, and it eventually forms “clots.” After dining at the Hawksmoor, we tried other sticky toffee puddings, but no one else made it as good as we had it here.

The menu is so extraordinary at the Hawksmoor that one could make a full evening of just dining here, especially on a special occasion, but there is also a popular pre-theatre “Express Menu” of 2 courses for 24 pounds or 3 courses for 27 pounds and is served until 6:30pm and from 10pm onwards, Monday to Saturday. The Express Menu includes spring salad with Graceburn, potted mackerel or bone marrow with onions as a started; for mains, Hawksmoor hamburger; D-rump (300 grams) or fillet tail (200 grams, with 5 pound supplement; whole sea bream or ricotta dumplings with spring vegetables. One side of triple-cooked chips, beef dripping fries, sweet potato, spring greens or herb salad is included. Puddings for dessert include sticky toffee pudding or peanut butter shortbread.

If you’re planning to go to London to see West End shows, or simply going to experience everything the British capital has to offer, the Hawksmoor Seven Dials is a gastronomical treat you won’t want to miss.

SINFULLY DELICIOUS: Sticky toffee pudding with clotted cream. Photo: Scott Harrah

THE BAR AT HAWKSMOOR SEVEN DIALS: Perfect place for a cocktail before or after a West End show. Photo: Courtesy of Hawksmoor Seven Dials.

GREAT FOR PRE-THEATRE OR A SPECIAL OCCASION: Hawksmoor Seven Dials in Covent Garden, London. Photo: Courtesy of Hawksmoor Seven Dials

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published July 3, 2015
Reviewed in London on June 17, 2015

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MUST-SEE SHOW: Imelda Staunton in ‘Gypsy’ at the Savoy. Photo: Scott Harrah

By Scott Harrah

The two great capitals of the English-language theater are New York and London. In honor of StageZine.com’s 5th Anniversary, we crossed the Atlantic to review the best West End shows and pre-theater restaurants in London, to give a heads-up to our readers bound for Europe this summer.

This was not our first time in London. It is one of our favorite cities and we’ve been many times, but it was our inaugural visit as theater critics.

London, ‘Capital of Cool’

London means different things to people. For some, the largest city in “Old Blighty” means West End theater, and the theaters here are absolutely gorgeous. This is the land of Shakespeare and Noel Coward, Sir Laurence Olivier, Harold Pinter, George Bernard Shaw, Oscar Wilde, Joe Orton and more. For others, it’s about visiting literary haunts, shopping at Harrods and Harvey Nichols, grooving to the latest music in the many nightclubs, doing all the touristy stuff like going to Buckingham Palace and Kensington Palace, marveling at exhibits at the Victoria and Albert Museum, or touring Westminster Abbey and the Tower of London. London is the capital of “cool,” where Vivienne Westwood, the Sex Pistols and Malcom McLaren created “Anarchy in the U.K.” with punk. London is the epicenter for 1980s new wave and classic British pop and rock, ranging from the Beatles and David Bowie to Duran Duran to the Spice Girls, the Pet Shop Boys, Boy George, Morrissey and the Smiths, Ozzy Osbourne, the Kinks, the Rolling Stones and others. London is known for the 1960s scene on Carnaby Street. It’s home to Notting Hill, the Portobello Road and Baker Street, Jack the Ripper, Ian Fleming’s James Bond, Sherlock Holmes, Agatha Christie, the BBC, and more.

PICCADILLY CIRCUS: One of London’s most famous areas. Photo: Scott Harrah

For royal enthusiasts, it’s home to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, Prince Charles and Camilla, William and Kate, Fergie and Prince Andrew, and the late Princess Diana and Princess Margaret. It’s the capital of the British Commonwealth and former Empire, a melting pot of British, Indian, West Indian and Arab cultures.

There are many similarities between New York and London. Both are crowded, congested, English-speaking cities full of culture, but London is cleaner. And, oh yes, be prepared for the high prices, but there’s good news for the budget-conscious.

NATIONAL THEATRE: Featuring cutting-edge shows, such as ‘Everyman.’ Photo: Scott Harrah

If you have not been to London in a while, now is the time to revisit. The currency exchange rate from dollars to pounds sterling is the best it has been in many years (and the dollars-to-euro rate is even better if you go to the Continent and explore France, Italy and other countries). Even so, London is perhaps the most expensive city in Europe, but many of the best things about the place are totally free. Explore Hyde Park by foot, walk around Piccadilly Circus or Covent Garden, window shop at the trendy stores on the Kings Road, or buy a sandwich and walk across Waterloo Bridge and take some snapshots of the River Thames, St. Paul’s Cathedral, Big Ben and Parliament and the Coca-Cola London Eye. Across the Thames, you’ll find the marvelous National Theatre, which currently has Everyman and The Motherfu***r with the Hat. Sure, it’s touristy, but splurge a bit and take a ride on the Coca-Cola London Eye for gorgeous panoramic views of the city. Book a “fast track” ticket so you don’t need to wait in any long line. Full rotation only takes 30 minutes, and the whole operation is clean and well organized. It is best to purchase tickets online and reserve a specified time to visit. From July 3 to August 21, 2015, the Coca-Cola London Eye is open until midnight for late-night rides. For tickets, please visit https://www.londoneye.com/

Over the next several days, we will be posting reviews of West End shows and pre-theater restaurants. We hope you will visit London and enjoy the city, the theater and the restaurants as much as we did.

OFFICIAL LONDON THEATRE & TKTS

For information and tickets to all the West End shows, please visit Official London Theatre at http://www.officiallondontheatre.co.uk

For discounted West End show tickets, visit the Clocktower at TKTS Leicester Square. You can even see what shows are on sale today, tomorrow and the following day by visiting http://www.tkts.co.uk/ and http://www.tkts.co.uk/whats-on-sale/

VISITLONDON.COM

A great website for everything about the British capital is http://www.visitlondon.com/

StageZine.com would like to thank the following people who made our visit possible and enjoyable: Anthony McNeill at Society of London Theatre; Mary Parker at the National Theatre; Stephen Pidcock and Philippa Redfern at Corner Shop PR; Lana Lay at Arthur Leone PR; Amy Barder and Catherine Rolle at Raw PR; Janine Shalom at Premier Comms PR; Mark Armstrong at the Savoy Theatre; Howard Rombrough at the Indigo Restaurant at One Aldwych;  Irena Pogarcic at Kitchen Communications (Hawksmoor Seven Dials); Petra Costandi at Dishoom; Elizabeth Broad at the Coca-Cola London Eye; and Rebekah Clement at London and Partners/VisitLondon.com.

BEST WAY TO GET AROUND LONDON: The Underground or “Tube.” Be forewarned, the “Tube” can be even more mobbed than the NYC subways. Photo: Scott Harrah

LONDON EYE AT NIGHT: Overlooking the Thames. Photo: Coca-Cola London Eye

ON TOP OF LONDON: A private capsule on the Coca-Cola London Eye. Photo: Coca-Cola London Eye

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