Gong Bao prawns with cashew nuts at Barshu in London. Photo: StageZine.

Barshu
28 Frith St
London W1D 5LF
United Kingdom
+44 20 7287 8822
https://barshurestaurant.co.uk/
Reservations: opentable.co.uk

By Scott Harrah

LONDON—Barshu is an institution in London, and for good reason.  Known for its spicy Sichuan food served in a Soho restaurant full of Chinese lanterns and Asian wooden decorations, this is the perfect place for a nice Chinese meal before or after a West End show.

We visited Barshu for the first time on our last night in London. We arrived at 5:30pm after a matinee of Back to the Future: The Musical. We were surprised Barshu was so packed and noisy at such an early hour—it is obviously popular—and fortunately, the hostess took us upstairs to the less hectic second level where we could dine in peace. For starters, our waiter suggested a cucumber dish.  It was a salad of sliced cucumbers coated with a thick green dressing. Honestly, it was not the most appetizing-looking dish but don’t let looks fool you. It is one of the best cucumber dishes you will ever eat. We could have devoured more of it for the main course. We asked what the dressing was made of and were told it was a “family secret,” so we just enjoyed it. Honestly, it was the most delicious appetizer we had the entire time in London.

In addition, we had the vegetable dumplings—small pieces of veggie-filled dough covered with a spicy chili oil and sprinkled with sesame seeds. These were light and fluffy, and the chili oil gave the dumplings a unique flavor without being too hot. We also tried the fish-fragrant prawns—simply lightly breaded prawns with a spicy dipping sauce. In reality, “fish fragrant” refers to the type of seasoning used and the prawns do not have a fishy taste at all. Those who aren’t fans of spicy Chinese should be forewarned that Barshu serves traditionally spicy Sichuan dishes, but none of it is anything one cannot handle. However, do ask your server about the level of spiciness because it varies from dish to dish.

For the main courses, we opted for Gong Bao prawns with cashew nuts and stir-fried chicken with black bean sauce. I split both with my dining partner.  The prawns were fresh and firm, the sauce was not too spicy and the cashew nuts gave the dish a great crunchy texture. The stir-fried chicken was sumptuous, the black bean sauce was not too overpowering, and the green and red peppers were crispy and spicy but did not burn at all.

Best of all, Barshu’s Sichuan specialties are not loaded with the MSG so prevalent in American Chinese food. Barshu is strictly upmarket and traditional Sichuan Chinese, so there is no need for them to prepare their food with anything but savory spices, chili oils and all kinds of delectable fragrant and palate-pleasing herbs. If one is looking for a hearty, authentic Sichuan meal in Soho, Barshu is a wise choice.

Published July 24, 2022
Reviewed in London on June 16, 2022

Barshu’s cucumbers made with a secret recipe. Don’t let looks fool you as this is one of the best Chinese appetizers you will ever taste. Photo: StageZine.

Vegetable dumplings at Barshu. Photo: StageZine.

Fish-fragrant prawns at Barshu. Photo: StageZine.

Stir-fried chicken with black bean sauce at Barshu. Photo: StageZine.

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A selection of specialties at Tamarind Kitchen, including (top) phav bhaji, a spiced vegetable curry served with spiced vegetables, fresh lemon & homemade methi milk bread. Lower left is biriyani, cooked with saffron rice, Tellicherry black pepper-spiced chicken, sealed under homemade flaky pastry.  Lower right is keema pav, lamb mince with spices & served with buttered masala pav. Photos courtesy of Tamarind Kitchen.

TAMARIND KITCHEN
167-169 Wardour Street
London, United Kingdom, W1F 8WR
Phone: 020 7287 4243
www.tamarindkitchen.co.uk

By Scott Harrah

LONDON—It’s often said the best Indian food outside of Mumbai is in London, and that’s certainly true in the case of Tamarind Kitchen, an upmarket Indian restaurant in Soho that’s a laid-back sister to a more formal location in posh Mayfair. It is right in the middle of Theatreland so it’s a great place for a quick bite before a West End show. Although it’s been open for five years, Tamarind Kitchen in Soho is still obviously a hotspot for Londoners and tourists alike because the place was packed on the Sunday evening we visited. With its dim lighting, wood paneling and upholstered furniture, the place has a unique vibe. It’s great for either an evening out or a pre-theatre dinner.

Americans are used to the hearty samosas and chicken tikka masala served in Indian restaurants back home, but Tamarind Kitchen offers a unique and more authentic twist on Indian food.  It is far less heavy than the greasy chicken tikka masala we get in New York, often served over rice.  Tamanrind Kitchen offers a healthier version of Indian specialties.

We started with a lychee cocktail that they normally serve with gin, but we opted for no alcohol because we were still jet-lagged after the long flight to Heathrow from JFK. Next, we had avocado chaat, a summery blend of sliced mango and avocado, in a tangy sauce served on top of small lettuce pieces. It was light and refreshing.  Next was raj kachori (mini wheat puris filled with various goodies), followed by black pepper chicken tikka. The chicken was filled with delightful chunks of black pepper that gave the meat the right amount of spice.

The chargrilled sea bass appetizer, with coconut and red chili glaze, was sweet but mildly spicy and just divine and not “ fishy” tasting at all (I’m not normally a big fish fan).  Best of all were the wild tandoori prawns, made from huge crustaceans flown in fresh from Nigeria. Meaty and perfectly spiced, they were gigantic, succulent and—dare I say it?—one of the best prawn dishes you’ll find on either side of the Atlantic.

For mains, we opted for the sinfully scrumptious butter chicken—gorgeous chunks of tender chicken breast floating in a buttery, tangy tomato cream sauce, and coastal prawns curry, served with light, fluffy naan bread instead of the heavy rice one usually gets in New York.  We especially enjoyed the kaali dal (house dal) black lentil sauce, which simmers all day in the kitchen and is a specialty at Tamarind Kitchen, according to our waiter. You’ve never tasted anything from the subcontinent as good as this. It is great for dipping in the naan.

We were especially impressed by the hospitality of General Manager Vipin Magoon and our waiter. Unfortunately we did not get our waiter’s name but he went above and beyond what any waiter normally does and made our visit especially memorable.

A scrumptious mango kulfi ice cream was served for dessert. It was light with a wonderfully summery mango taste — a great ending to a wonderful meal. If you love Indian cuisine and plan to visit London soon, Tamarind Kitchen should be at the top of your list of restaurants to visit.

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published July 13, 2022
Reviewed on June 12, 2022 in London

Avocado chaat at Tamarind Kitchen. Photo: StageZine.

Chargrilled sea bass at Tamarind Kitchen. Photo: StageZine.

Raj kachori, mini puri filled with crunchy shells & covered in yogurt, tamarind & mint chutney. Photo: StageZine.

Delicious mango kulfi ice cream. Photo: StageZine.

A mixed platter of black pepper chicken tikka, lamb seekh kebab & wild prawns with a spicy dipping sauce. Photo: Courtesy of Tamarind Kitchen.

Phav bhaji, a chunky, buttery spiced vegetable curry served with fresh lemon with rolls. Photo courtesy of Tamarind Kitchen.

Tamarind Kitchen has a wide selection of cocktails & non-alcoholic cocktails available. Pictured is the Jasmine Club cocktail, with house-infused Beefeater gin, peach, rose & lemon. Photo: Courtesy of Tamarind Kitchen.

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RETRO CHIC: VIVI in London, near most West End theatres. Photo: Courtesy of VIVI

VIVI
Centre Point
11 St Giles Passage, Square
London, United Kingdom, WC2H 8AP
vivirestaurant.co.uk

By Scott Harrah

LONDON⁠—VIVI is not only one of the best restaurants in London; it’s one of the best in Europe as well. This posh spot, which opened earlier this year in the Centre Point building, is close to all the West End theatres. Proximity to a show is crucial when one is primarily visiting the British capital to enjoy theatre, but you definitely may want to allow plenty of time to truly enjoy a lavish restaurant like VIVI. It’s great for either a pre-theatre dinner or a more relaxed meal when you simply want to treat yourself after a busy day of sightseeing or shopping in London.

Do not let the Centre Point building deceive you. On the surface, the Centre Point building looks like a typical “mid-century” high-rise building one might find on New York’s East Side. For Americans wanting to experience something authentically British, Centre Point may remind one too much of any 1960s building back in the States, but don’t be too quick to make a judgment because VIVI is the ultimate in retro British chic. A fun fact: the name VIVI pays homage to the roman numerals for 1966, the year Centre Point was built.

It was a rainy June evening and we had a tight curtain time (7pm for The Lehman Trilogy) so we stopped by VIVI a bit early at 5:15pm to eat. A kind and friendly young woman greeted us at the front door and told us it was fine to head upstairs to the dining room, even though our reservation was not until 5:30pm.

We were enthralled with the place from the moment we stepped into the dining room, with pink-hued marble floors, bar stools in teal leather and lots of polished wood, like something from a glorious retro-futuristic James Bond film.

We had the pleasure of being served by general manager Troy Dalton, a charming Australian with matinee-idol looks and lots of enthusiasm about the restaurant. He answered all our questions about the restaurant and its delightful menu.

VIVI offers both a set menu (£21.5 for one course; £24.5 for three, with a glass of prosecco) and an a la carte menu. The set menu features such starters as chicken and ham terrine with piccalilli and grilled sourdough; pea and mint soup with a cheese straw; and beetroot and goat’s cheese salad with orange and candied walnuts. Mains include chicken tikka masala with Bombay potato and raita; VIVI fishcake with a poached egg, mushy peas and tartar sauce; broad bean and asparagus gnocchi with Berkswell cheese and preserved lemon. Desserts range from rum baba with vanilla ice cream and confit orange to a Colston Bassett cheese with seasonal chutney.

My dining partner started off with a non-alcoholic cocktail called “Pomegranate and Cranberry Fizz,” a refreshing blend of cranberry juice, pomegranate, lime, sugar and soda water (£7). I had a nice dry glass of red wine.

We were tempted to try the “Nibbles” like the coronation chicken beignet or cauliflower cheese croquettes, but decided instead to both enjoy the classic prawn cocktail, served with brown bread and butter. In the U.S., prawn or shrimp cocktails usually mean the prawns will be served over a big cup of American-style cocktail sauce (usually ketchup and horseradish). At VIVI, the prawn cocktail is served with prawns on top of a heap of Marie Rose sauce, a British concoction normally made of ketchup, mayonnaise, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, etc.; in the U.S., it is similar to Thousand Island dressing. The prawns were fresh and firm as they should be. Other starters include a Caesar salad, chopped salad, hot smoked salmon and a beetroot and goat cheese salad.

We were especially excited about the mains, from the Berkshire pork chop to classic English fish and chips, chicken Kiev and most important, the steak selection. All the beef is from the Ayrshire Coast in Scotland and dry aged for 38 days by the butcher HG Walters. Fillet, rib eye and rump steak are available and we were so glad we chose the fillet (£36).  It was 250g of some of the best, most succulent steak we’ve had anywhere, served with roast garlic and water cress. Three sauces are served (£1.5); Béarnaise, chimichurri and peppercorn, and all three were outstanding but we did not need much sauce because the steak was so excellent on its own.

VIVI also has great sides to go with its grilled steaks, all at £4.5 each. Some of the choices include truffle mac and cheese; crisp leaf salad with house dressing; green beans with shallot and hazelnuts. We chose the Jersey royal potatoes with parsley and the garlic mushrooms. The potatoes and mushrooms were both delicious.

Unfortunately, because of our early curtain, we did not have time to indulge in the desserts but they all sounded scrumptious, from the apple and plum crumble (£8.5) to the “after eight,” with a chocolate biscuit, dark chocolate mousse and mint ice cream (£8.5).

If you’re visiting London soon, be sure to add VIVI to your list of “musts” whether you are planning a pre-theatre meal, a special occasion, or just a fun night out. VIVI’s beef fillet is certainly one of the best you’ll ever taste and we cannot wait to go back to VIVI soon.

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published July 3, 2019
Reviewed on June 12, 2019 in London

VIVI: The sleek bar. Photo: Courtesy of VIVI.

VIVI: Succulent fillet steak with grilled garlic and, in background, Jersey potatoes. Photo: Scott Harrah

VIVI: Pomegranate and Cranberry Fizz non-alcoholic cocktail. Photo: Scott Harrah

‘VIVI’: Bread & butter & fabulous courgette fries. Photo: Scott Harrah

VIVI: The Liquid Lounge. Photo: Courtesy of VIVI.

VIVI: Cocktails & bar bites. Photo: Courtesy of VIVI.

VIVI: Sticky toffee pudding, a classic British dessert. Photo: Courtesy of VIVI.

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THE IVY MARKET GRILL
1 Henrietta Street
London WC2E 8PS
United Kingdom
44 20 3301 0200, https://theivymarketgrill.com/

By Scott Harrah

LONDON–The Ivy Market Grill is an upmarket institution in the theatre district of London. It’s a great place to stop for a delicious meal and fine cocktails and wine before catching a West End Show.

You will be charmed by British brasserie’s elegant ambiance and eclectic menu. One can choose to sit right outside in Covent Garden overlooking the famous piazza, but it was a typical rainy early June evening in London so we ate indoors in the simple but elegant dining room.

We started with an appetizer that was not on the pre-theatre menu: zucchini fritti, consisting of French-fried, crispy courgette (shoestring zucchini fries as we call them in the States) served with lemon, mint and chili yogurt sauce. We’re used to heavily battered vegetable tempura back in New York, but the version here is lighter, with very light breading, allowing the flavor of the zucchini to be fully enjoyed without overpowering oil.

I chose the steak tartare as a second appetizer. This consisted of hand-chopped rare beef sirloin with a Tabasco mustard dressing, cornichons, shallot, parsley, egg yolk and toasted granary bread and toasted granary bread (an English bread containing both white and whole wheat flour).

For the main course, we both chose the steak, egg and thick-cut chips from the pre-theatre menu. chose the chargrilled minute steak available on the pre-theatre menu. It is described as a “thinly beaten rump steak” with a fried egg. It tasted like a thin sirloin cut of meat, with garlic butter, thick cut chips and watercress for £3.50 supplement. It was perfectly cooked at medium rare as requested, and filling but not too heavy (a plus before heading to the theatre, when one does not want to be too full). This tender steak was great with a glass of bold wine.

For dessert, we chose the strawberry ice cream from the pre-theatre menu. It was scrumptious with pistachios and a unique white chocolate sauce. This went great with a cup of café Americano and a decadently sweet glass of Moscato wine.

The Ivy Market Grill is part of the renowned Ivy Collection of establishments and was one of our favorite pre-theatre restaurants in London. Two courses for pre-theatre dinner is £ 16.50; £ 21 for three.

If you are heading to a West End show, you cannot go wrong with this elegant establishment in the picturesque Covent Garden area of London.

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published June 30, 2019
Reviewed on June 11, 2019 in London

Steak tartare (hand-chopped rare beef sirloin with a Tabasco mustard dressing, cornichons, shallot, parsley, egg yolk) at Ivy Market Grill. Photo: Scott Harrah

Zucchini fritti, consisting of French-fried, crispy courgette. served with lemon, mint and chili yogurt sauce at Ivy Market Grill. Photo: Scott Harrah

Chargrilled minute steak, available on the pre-theatre menu at Ivy Market Grill. Photo: Scott Harrah

Ice cream served with fresh strawberries and a white chocolate sauce. Photo: Scott Harrah

The post The Ivy Market Grill for Fine Pre-Theatre | London Dining appeared first on StageZine.

DIM SUM DECADENCE: A selection of three types of dim sum stuffed with prawns & more. Photo: Scott Harrah

BaoziInn
24 Romilly Street
London, United Kingdom
W1D 5AH
02017 287 3266
www.baoziinn.com

By Scott Harrah

Being native New Yorkers, we’re quite familiar with Chinese foods of all types (or so we think). In fact, “Chinese” food is part of any New Yorker’s diet, from Kung Pao chicken, General Tso’s chicken to chicken with broccoli with garlic sauce, sweet and sour pork, etc. We are used to American-style “Chinese” foods that have been adjusted for the American palate, and it seems many Chinese restaurants in New York City do booming business with chicken and ribs with hot sauce because that’s what New Yorkers crave the most, but it’s not really “Chinese food” at all. Chinese food in New York usually means Americanized take-out places, or for the adventurous, more authentic Chinese places along Canal Street in Chinatown, the kind with Peking duck hanging in the window, and menu items like squab (a nice word for “pigeon”) and chicken’s feet, the type of cuisine that is a bit too exotic for New Yorkers and tourists alike. On our annual visit to London to review West End shows and pre-theatre restaurants, we were offered the chance to sample this bona fide restaurant boasting “Northern Chinese street food” and the first in London to offer “Cantonese Dim Sum with Szechuan and Hunan influences.” It was a brilliant new experience from start to finish.

From the moment one enters the converted corner town house on Romilly Street in Soho, one knows BaoziInn is not your ordinary Asian restaurant. The gracious, charming manager Med Pang met us at the door, showed us to a table and immediately started explaining the unique menu. It’s rare to get this type of service in London but at BaoziInn, you are truly treated as family. As small as the place is, it is certainly cozy, with Georgian sash windows, Asian lanterns and decorative shutters. BaoziInn, which means “people’s canteen” in Chinese, is brought to us by Wei Shao, who made a name on the London restaurant scene with Barshu, a popular Szechuan hotspot.

The food is created by Head Chef Francis Law, a Cantonese cook and dim sum expert, who has worked at Ting Tai Fung in Macao, Zen Chinese Culture in Hong Kong, and China Dream in London.

We had no idea what to order—it all looked so scrumptious—so the warm, magnanimous Med Pang brought us out a nice selection of prawn dim sum (since we don’t eat pork). We started with three steaming bamboo bowls containing Ruby Prawn Dumplings (in a savory beetroot pastry), Prawn and Chive Dumpling in a Spinach Juice Pastry, Watercress Prawn Dumpling in a Turmeric Spice Pastry and Prawn Toast. All of the dim sum was presented beautifully and each had a distinct flavor. One may also try dim sum made with Chili Pork Baozi, Pork and Prawn “Shao Mai” in Spanish Juice Pastry, Cuttlefish ‘Shao Mai” in Chili Juice Pastry, Szechuan Style Steamed Phoenix Claws, and more.

The dim sum is reasonably priced, with each dish £3.50 for lunch and £4.50 for dinner. The bar also has a nice selection of world wines and handpicked beers.

In addition, we enjoyed a type of “prawn brioche” that was basically a warm French-style roll with a big prawn inside, cut in half so it would be easier to eat. Outstanding!

We were curious to see the Chinese take on “kebabs” so we tried the Sirloin Steak Skewer with black pepper sauce, Chicken Skewer with caramelized sauce, and the King Prawn Skewer with caramelized sauce as well. All were perfectly cooked and the sauce complimented the meat and prawns beautifully.

Just as we were feeling quite full, Mr. Pang came out and insisted we try the Dan Dan Noodles (with a spicy sauce with preserved vegetables like mustard stems, chili oil, Szechuan pepper and scallions served over the noodles). The classic wonton prawn was also delicious. We were stuffed to the gills and could not eat another bite, even though the food is all so light and made without the MSG so common in American versions of Chinese food. The food is all fresh and made without artificial food coloring and less sugar, and does not have the “heavy” consistency of Chinese food in America. This is one of our favorite Chinese restaurants in not only London, but the entire world. If you planning a visit to London this year, Baozilnn should be at the top of your list of “must visit” restaurants. We cannot wait to return.

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published July 5, 2018
Reviewed on June 22, 2018 in London

For reservations, please email romillyst@baoziinn.com

SUCCULENT SKEWERS (left to right) Fresh prawns, beef & chicken. Photo: Scott Harrah

PRAWN BRIOCHE: Tender prawns served in brioche-style dumpling roll. Photo: Scott Harrah

NOODLE PARADISE: A savory selection of various noodle dishes available. Photo: Courtesy of Baoziinn

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FOXLOW SOHO: Casual interior of the restaurant. Photo: Courtesy of Foxlow Soho

FOXLOW SOHO
8-10 Lower James Street
London, United Kingdom
W1F 9EL
020 7680 2710
www.foxlow.co.uk

By Scott Harrah

We’re huge fans of the Hawksmoor chain of British steakhouses throughout the U.K. so we jumped at the chance to dine at Foxlow Soho, brought to you by Will Beckett and Huw Gott, the two men who founded Hawksmoor. Foxlow Soho claims it serves the same British produce and meats that Hawksmoor does, but has a more relaxed, casual ambience and food that caters a bit more to the health-conscious millennial crowd at a more affordable price (the average cost of dinner for two with drinks is £50 to £70). The décor has a slight American diner vibe as well.

The menu is a bit different than the Hawksmoor restaurants. Yes, you will find steaks and seafood, but also healthier alternatives like chicken burgers and vegan options like spice-roasted cauliflower with chickpeas, wilted spinach and curried aubergine (eggplant) sauce.

Our server suggested the spice-roasted cauliflower as a starter, and it was a great choice, the spice and curried aubergine brought out the flavor of the cauliflower and the chick peas gave it a Middle Eastern touch.

Next we opted for the kale, avocado and fresh herb salad with toasted seeds. This was a delightfully summery concoction, with huge, crunchy kale and the light consistency of the avocado. My dining partner chose the five-pepper Brixham squid with a tangy deviled mayonnaise. He said the squid was tender, not overcooked and the peppers and mayo helped enhance the flavor of the squid.

For the main course, we both decided on steak. I had the sirloin, dry-aged for 30 days, while my partner chose the ribeye, also dry-aged for 30 days. When one is used to great American steaks like we are, it is always a risky selection ordering beef abroad. We have had great British steaks at the Hawksmoor and also at many restaurants on the continent. My sirloin, served medium rare as I like it, was bold and nicely marbled, but a bit too tough for what I’m used to. My partner was underwhelmed by his ribeye because he said it was full of gristle. However, we were able to enjoy our steaks regardless with some tasty HP sauce and also tucked into the deliciously salty chips (fries).

One wonders if Foxlow’s other meat mains, including Merrifield Farm chicken breast or Dingley Dell pork ribeye, might be better choices than the beef. Chicken and beef burgers are also available, as well as a set menu.

For dessert, we decided to split one of our favorite British sweets, sticky toffee pudding with clotted cream. Foxlow’s sticky toffee pudding is decadent indeed, and finished off the meal quite nicely with a steaming cup of café Americano.

Foxlow also has a number of innovative cocktails available as well as an extensive wine list. If you are in the Soho area, wanting a quick bite before a West End show that won’t break the budget, Foxlow is a good choice.

Open for Brunch, Lunch and Dinner. For bookings, email soho@foxlow.com or please visit https://www.foxlow.co.uk/

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published July 5, 2018
Reviewed on June 23, 2018 in London

SPICE-ROASTED CAULIFLOWER: With chick peas. Photo: Scott Harrah

CHOICE STARTERS: (Top) Five-pepper Brixham squid with a tangy deviled mayonnaise. (Bottom) Kale, avocado & fresh herb salad with toasted seeds. Photo: Scott Harrah

STEAKS & CHIPS: The dry-aged sirloin (front) and ribeye (back) served with mushrooms & great salty chips (fries). Photo: Scott Harrah

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J. Sheekey Atlantic Bar: Seafood institution near West End theatres. Photo: Paul Winch-Furness HR

J. SHEEKEY ATLANTIC BAR
33-35 St Martin’s Court
London, United Kingdom
WC2N 4AL
(020 7420 9865)
https://www.jsheekeyatlanticbar.co.uk/

By Scott Harrah

Seafood is not the first thing that comes to mind when dining out in London, but J. Sheekey Atlantic Bar, located between Leicester Square and Covent Garden, is a great place for fresh prawns, oysters, seared octopus, scallops and more before or after a West End show. In fact, J. Sheekey has a rich history of serving seafood to theatre-loving Londoners since the late 19^th century.

J. Sheekey Atlantic Bar, a more relaxed sister restaurant to the venerable J. Sheekey restaurant next door (in business since 1896), celebrates its 10^th anniversary this year and has become a staple for pre- and post-theatre dining with its wide selection of fish, shellfish, salads and more. The older J. Sheekey started serving seafood in St. Martin’s Court in the late 1800s under the condition that dinner must be served to Prime Minister Lord Salisbury and his friends. The Atlantic Bar restaurant offers both indoor dining and a comfortable outdoor terrace for al fresco dining during warm summer nights.

During our recent visit to the British capital to review West End shows, we stopped by for a pre-theatre bite. We opted to mostly enjoy the prawns available and started with the Crab, Prawn and Avocado Salad, served with grated Parmesan cheese, crunchy croutons and a spiced cocktail sauce. This was a great summery starter and much like a Caesar salad with a twist. Next up was a half pint of Atlantic Prawns, served with the deliciously tangy Marie Rose Sauce (a savory blend of mayonnaise, ketchup, Tabasco, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice and cognac). The sauce really brought out the freshness of the prawns and did not overpower the taste too much. The prawns (or “shrimp” as we call them in many parts of the USA) come with the shell still intact, so eating them requires some work, but it’s well worth it. A fine wine list compliments the menu.

For the main course, we split two entrees: Seared Tiger Prawns with “bang bang roasted peanut sauce,” and the succulent Prawn Tempura served with spicy chili jam. The Prawn Tempura was among the best we’ve ever had: lightly battered, helping enhance the flavor of the giant prawns without being overbearing. We also indulged in a side of chips (fries), so hot and salty and one of the best we’ve had in Europe.

For dessert, we tried the honeycomb ice cream with chocolate sauce. The ice cream had a smooth, honey-infused texture, topped with decadent chocolate sauce and with several crunchy biscuits. We also indulged in a coffee with the raspberry parfait with buttermilk crunch, a perfect end to a light pre-theatre meal.

The staff at J. Sheekey Atlantic Bar is also noteworthy, from the people greeting one at the door to our friendly waiter who explained everything on the menu in great detail.

Although seafood is not often what one thinks of when dining in London, Britain is, after all, an island, and J. Sheekey has some of the best seafood we’ve had in this part of Europe. From seared octopus to crab cakes, oysters and salmon to the famous Sheekey’s Fish Pie (a favorite among theatregoers, served post-theatre with a glass of house wine for £19.75), J. Sheekey should not be missed on your next visit to London.

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published June 30, 2018
Reviewed on June 21, 2018 in London

Atlantic prawns: Absolutely superb, with the great Marie Rose sauce. Photo: Scott Harrah

Seared Tiger prawns with bang bang peanut sauce. Photo: Scott Harrah

Prawn Tempura with chili jam. Photo: Scott Harrah

Honeycomb ice cream with chocolate sauce. Photo:: Scott Harrah

Outdoor dining at J. Sheekey Atlantic Bar in London. Photo: Paul Winch-Furness HR

Fish Pie: A standard at J. Sheekey Atlantic Bar. Photo: Courtesy of J. Sheekey’s Atlantic Bar.

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LOBBY BAR: One Aldwych features a variety of ‘Showtime Cocktails,’ inspired by theatre classics from Shakespeare to Chekhov. Photo: Courtesy of One Aldwych

INDIGO RESTAURANT & THE LOBBY BAR
Inside One Aldwych Hotel
One Aldwych
London, United Kingdom
WC2B 4BZ
020-7300 1000, http://www.onealdwych.com/food-drink/indigo

By Scott Harrah

LONDON–We visited Indigo at One Aldwych (inside the renowned luxury hotel in Covent Garden) for a pre-theatre dinner between shows during our recent London visit. This was our second time at Indigo (we first visited back in 2015). This year we started off with a drink at The Lobby Bar, offering theatrical-themed “Showtime Cocktails.”

The experience begins at the bright and airy bar with its high ceiling from the moment one arrives. Pedro Paulo, The Lobby Bar Manager, was kind enough to explain the “Showtime Cocktails” that he and his talented team of mixologists created.

We were given a clever little menu that broke down the drinks available into “Comedies,” “Musicals,” “Satires,” “Dramas” and “Backstage.”  For “Comedies,” choose from the Fairy Garden Fusion (inspired by A Midsummer Night’s Dream) containing Hendrick’s gin, Taylor’s Chip Dry White Port, Coriander Bitters and Rose Lemonade (£ 16).  My dining partner chose “Dionysus” (inspired by Cyclops), containing Havana Club 7-Year-Old Rum, Crème de Pêche, fresh lemon juice, Aperol, fresh blood orange juice and homemade watermelon syrup, served in a special Dionysus cup (£ 16).  He said it was very sweet and tropical and the rum was strong.

SHOWTIME COCKTAILS: (left to right) The Dionysus (inspired by ‘Cyclops’) & The Holy Mary (inspired by ‘The Book of Mormon’) at The Lobby Bar at One Aldwych. Photo: Scott Harrah

I chose The Holy Mary (inspired by The Book of Mormon), made with Stolichnaya Elit Vodka, fresh tomato juice, strawberry liqueur, strawberry puree, Yuzu bitters and hibiscus foam (£ 16).  The drink was a unique twist on the classic bloody Mary, and the sweetness of the strawberry was a nice contrast to the tomato juice and vodka. We especially enjoyed the tasty olives sitting on the table.

One drink we did not try (because we’re not whisky fans) was The Origin, created by Mr. Pedro. This drink, made with Dalmore 12-year-old whisky, Merlet Cherry liqueur, cherry puree, fresh grapefruit juice, chocolate bitters and Lallier Champagne, allows people to “take a trip to the Highlands to discover the tastes behind the cocktail.” Guests are given virtual reality goggles and a headset and take a high-tech trip up to Scotland to visit the distillery where the whisky is aged (£ 18).

The cocktails are a wonderful prelude to the pre-theatre dinner at Indigo, the restaurant also located inside the hotel. With British dishes created by Executive Chef Dominic Teague, everything at Indigo is gluten and dairy-free (but not prepared in a dedicated gluten and dairy-free kitchen). Two courses are £22 and £27 for three.  The pre-theatre fare is light and perfect for a quick but satisfying, healthy meal before a show. The menu is constantly changing and seasonal, and one hardly notices that everything is gluten-free.

For the starter, I chose the pea soup, made with a poached Buford Brown hen’s egg and mint oil. It was marvelously summery, without the heavy additives like salt, ham and croutons often served in American versions. This pea soup is noted by Indigo as being suitable for vegetarians.

For my main course, I opted for the pork tenderloin, and it was succulent and tender and not greasy. The pork came served with a spicy chorizo, a tasty touch. This went great with a lovely glass of Malbec wine.

My friend had a Cornish pollack, served with Muscat grapes, almond and coastal herbs, and he said it was light but filling.

For dessert, we both had the strawberry pavlova, served with strawberry and basil ice cream. The pavlova has a heavenly meringue base and is served with a decadent syrupy sauce.

Indigo offers one of the most unique and health-conscious pre-theatre dinners in London’s Theatreland for those with special dietary requirements, and for anyone looking for an upmarket dining experience before heading off to a West End show.

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published July 8, 2017
Reviewed on June 24, 2017 in London

PORK TENDERLOIN: Served with a spicy chorizo at Indigo at One Aldwych. Photo: Scott Harrah

PEA SOUP: The first pre-theatre course at Indigo. Photo: Scott Harrah

Quinoa salad at Indigo at One Aldwych. Photo: Courtesy of Indigo at One Aldwych

Lamb rump roast at Indigo. Photo: Courtesy of Indigo at One Aldwych.

Strawberry pavlova at Indigo at One Aldwych. Photo: www.jamesbedford.com

More ‘Showtime Cocktails’ at The Lobby Bar

‘CE SOIR’: Inspired by ‘Moulin Rouge’ & made with vodka, homemade pomegranate shrub, homemade fennel syrup, mint bitters & Lallier Champagne. At the Lobby Bar at the One Aldwych Hotel in London. Photo: www.jamesbedford.com/www.onealdwych.com

THE ORIGIN: Guests are given special goggles to take a virtual reality trip to the distillery in Scotland where the whisky is produced. At The Lobby Bar at One Aldwych, London. Photo: www.jamesbedford.com & www.onealdwych.com

ALDWYCH MULE: Called ‘a twist on the classic Moscow Mule,’ made with Absolut Elyx Vodka, elderflower liqueur, fresh lime juice, ginger beer & gooseberry jam. Inspired by ‘Is He Dead?’ At Lobby Bar at One Aldwych in London. Photo: www.jamesbedford.com & www.onealdwych.com

SHOWTIME COCKTAILS: (left to right) ‘Take a Chance On Me,’ ‘Ce Soir,’ ‘Jasmine Breeze’ & ‘The Circle of Life’. At The Lobby Bar at One Aldwych. Photo: www.jamesbedford.com & www.onealdwych.com

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HAWKSMOOR AIR STREET: Great steak & seafood, among the best in London and the U.K. Photo: Courtesy of Hawksmoor Air Street

HAWKSMOOR AIR STREET
5 Air Street
Piccadilly, Mayfair
London W1J 0AD
United Kingdom
44 20 7406 3980, http://thehawksmoor.com/locations/airstreet/

By Scott Harrah

LONDON–Hawksmoor Air Street, like all the Hawksmoor locations in London, has some of the best steak in the U.K. Two years ago we visited the Hawksmoor Seven Dials and were completely overwhelmed by the high quality of steak and seafood and the superlative service. We were anxious to try another Hawksmoor location to see if it lived up to the glories of the Seven Dials restaurant, and we were not disappointed.

Take some extra time to find the restaurant since the entrance is on a short stretch of Air Street between Piccadilly Circus and Regent Street. It is definitely worth seeking out this hidden-away Central London gem. Dining at Hawksmoor Air Street is a glorious experience from the moment one walks through the door and is greeted by the cheerful hostesses. As soon as one heads upstairs, expect to be instantly transported to a world of old-school elegance, from mirrored walls to stained-glass windows, polished veneer and banquettes. While the Seven Dials location has a pub feel, Hawksmoor Air Street is more Art Deco and a bit on the posh side, but still casual and hardly stuffy.

The menu, of course, is the star attraction at any Hawksmoor location, and Hawksmoor Air Street does not disappoint with its wide selection of seafood, juicy steaks and remarkable side dishes. There is an extensive wine list and what the British call “pre-prandials” (cocktails), from Champagne Charlie (Gin, lemon, seasonal fruit syrup and Champagne) for £12.50 to Messenger’s Tonic (Gin, Lillet Blanc, Sherry and tonic cocktail) for £10 to the Hawksmoor Collins (Gin, lemon, Campari, bitters and soda) for £9.75.

Roast scallops, with white port & garlic is a great starter. Photo: Scott Harrah

For starters, choose from roast scallops with white port and garlic, potted smoked mackerel, smoked salmon, Half Dartmouth lobster (£5.00/100h). Old Spot belly ribs, potted beef with bacon and Yorkshires, filet carpaccio with porcini, Parmesan and scallops, Evesham asparagus, buttered or hollandaise; Kohlrabi salad with celery hearts and spenwood cheese; and Doddington Caesar.

Steaks are the main reason to come to the Hawksmoor Air Street. From Chateaubriand (£13.00/100g) to Porterhouse (£9.25/100g); T-bone (£8.25/100g); bone-in prime rib (£8.25/100g) to filet (300g) for £35.00; sirloin (400g) for £29.50; Rib-eye (400g) for £31.50; rump (300g) for £19.50. Plus, sides such as maple bacon for £4.25; two fried eggs for £3.00; grilled bone marrow for £4.50. and a half Dartmouth lobster for £5.00/100g. Steaks all come with a fabulous choice of sauces: Peppercorn, bone marrow gravy, Anchovy hollandaise or Stichelton hollandaise.

However, seafood lovers will not be disappointed. Choose from turbot (grilled over charcoal) for £13.00 for 100g or royal bream, baked in paper with garlic, rosemary, and chili, for just £20. Dover sole, grilled over charcoal or Meuniere, is £36. Monkfish, grilled over charcoal, is £24 to £48.

Juicy and tender Chateaubriand served with a side of mashed potatoes & gravy. Photo: Scott Harrah

Being a carnivore who loves good steak, I asked our pleasant and helpful waiter Jordan to recommend the best steak,and he suggested the Chateaubriand, served medium rare, with the savory peppercorn sauce. He also insisted I try the roast scallops with white port and garlic and a side of beef dripping fries and mashed potatoes and gravy for my main course. I ordered a glass of lovely Malbec that went great with everything. The scallops were fresh and succulent, and the Chateaubriand was outstanding—a tender chunk of thick, lean but slightly marbled Nirvana.

Hawksmoor smoked salmon as a starter. Photo: Scott Harrah

My dining partner was feeling a bit under the weather and was not in the mood for a heavy steak, so Jordan suggested the sea bream with Jersey Royal potatoes. He enjoyed the sea bream and found it light fare for a hot British summer night. For a starter, he chose the light and flavorful Hawksmoor smoked salmon.

The Hawksmoor Air Street includes an Express Menu (Pre-Theatre) with two courses for £25 and three courses for £28 . Starters include potted smoked mackerel, potted beef and bacon with Yorkshires or Kohlrabi salad with celery hearts and spenwood cheese. Main courses include Royal bream with garlic, rosemary and and chili, or ash-baked root vegetables with spelt (known as hulled wheat in the USA) and curd’s cow. Choose from one of the following sides: Triple-cooked chips; baked sweet potato, creamed spinach or lettuce and herb salad. For dessert (puddings), try peanut butter shortbread, sticky toffee pudding or passion-fruit cheesecake.

Sides are also something one simply cannot miss at Hawksmoor Air Street, from the beef dripping fries (£4.50) to triple-cooked chips (£4.50); mashed potatoes and gravy (£4.50); Jersey Royals (£5) to baked sweet potato (£4). Also look for macaroni and cheese (£5.50); creamed spinach (£5.50); spinach, lemon and garlic (£5.25); roasted field mushrooms (£4). plus a selection of salads for £4.

We loved the beef dripping fries and the mashed potatoes and gravy, as well as the Jersey Royals (we couldn’t decide which we liked best as they were all superb). This reviewer is proud to be of Irish-American extraction, so I will eat and relish potatoes of any type, shape or form.

Sticky toffee pudding with warm clotted cream. Nobody does it better than Hawksmoor. Photo: Scott Harrah

For dessert, we both split an order of the Hawksmoor’s famous sticky toffee pudding with warm, sinful clotted cream. Just like at the Seven Dials location, the Hawksmoor Air Street’s sticky toffee pudding is among the best you will find in London, if not all of England. The dessert is not well known in America but it is a British staple, consisting of a rich sponge cake filled with chopped dates and sultanas, topped with either ice cream or warm clotted cream. The Hawksmoor’s version is served with the latter and it is decadently divine. It goes exquisitely with a cup of American coffee or espresso.

Now that we’ve enjoyed two different Hawksmoor locations in London, we’re convinced nobody does steak and upmarket British comfort food quite like the Hawksmoor. They truly have some of the best steak and service of anywhere in the U.K. If you visit London this summer or autumn, be sure to try one of the Hawksmoor restaurants. Hawksmoor is great for both pre-theatre dinner or a long, leisurely meal out in the British capital.

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published July 4, 2017
Reviewed on June 23, 2017 in London

HAWKSMOOR AIR STREET: Grass-fed, bone-in prime rib. Photo: Courtesy of Hawksmoor Air Street

HAWKSMOOR AIR STREET: Cocktails. Photo: Courtesy of Hawksmoor Air Street

HAWKSMOOR AIR STREET: Great fish dishes. Photo: Courtesy of Hawksmoor Air Street

HAWKSMOOR AIR STREET: Stained glassed windows in a gorgeous Art Deco setting in the Piccadilly/Mayfair area of London. Photo: Courtesy of Hawksmoor Air Street

HAWKSMOOR AIR STREET: Bar with great pre-theatre cocktails. Photo: Courtesy of Hawksmoor Air Street

HAWKSMOOR AIR STREET: Cozy yet upmarket atmosphere. Photo: Courtesy of Hawksmoor Air Street

FABULOUS STEAK & SEAFOOD: Some offerings at Hawksmoor Air Street. Photo: Courtesy of Hawksmoor Air Street

HAWKSMOOR AIR STREET: Conveniently located near all the theatres in Piccadilly Circus/Mayfair. Photo: Courtesy of Hawksmoor Air Street

HAWKSMOOR AIR STREET: The interior. Photo: Courtesy of Hawksmoor Air Street

HAWKSMOOR AIR STREET: Interior with stained glass windows. Photo: Courtesy of Hawksmoor Air Street

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BRITISH TWIST ON BARBECUE: Blacklock Soho in London has excellent pork, beef & lamb chops, beef dripping fries & more. Photo: Courtesy of Blacklock Soho

BLACKLOCK SOHO
24 Great Windmill Street, Soho
London W1D 7LG
United Kingdom
44 20 3441 6996, http://theblacklock.com/soho/

By Scott Harrah

LONDON–Blacklock Soho offers a British twist on an American classic, barbecue. The Soho institution, in walking distance to all West End theatres, is a carnivore’s paradise.

Located in a basement in Soho on Great Windmill Street, Blacklock has a casual, pub-style vibe. We popped in during our London visit between shows for a quick pre-theatre bite. A friendly Canadian waiter greeted us and explained the menu.

Blacklock has an extensive drink menu with “cocktails for a fiver,” including Grandma’s Spiked Lemonade (Madeira, sloe gin, lemon, Earl Grey), Pink Lady (cider brandy, cider syrup, lemon, prosecco), a variety of beers, and both red and white wine on tap and by the glass. We opted for a lovely glass of Black Sheep, Merlot from France. There are many more wines and cocktails; just ask when you visit.

Blacklock features pre-chop bites served on crackers, including Colston basset blue cheese and pickle, slow-cooked pig’s head and Kimchee (we dare you to try it), and egg and anchovy with kewpie mayo, egg and Spanish anchovy. We weren’t sure just exactly what all the pre-chop bites were, but we devoured them with delight regardless.

Pre-chop bites at Blacklock Soho. Photo: Scott Harrah

The meat selection includes “Skinny Chops,” consisting of beef rump, lamb cutlet, lamb T-bone, pork loin, pork rib and pork belly. “Big Chops” feature beef (Porterhouse, prime rib, 8/10g), bone-in sirloin (7/100g); lamb (Barnsley, 5.5/100g); and pork (Tomahawk, 5/100g).  One can see the daily specials scribbled on giant blackboards throughout the place. We got a bit overwhelmed and opted for the “All in,” with pre-chop bites, all of the daily Skinny Chops on the chargrilled flatbread for sharing (minimum of two people or more), served with a side each for 20 pounds per person.

Sides include the outstanding beef dripping chips (fries); the 10-hour ash-roasted sweet potato; a delicious kale and Parmesan salad; and a summer salad. One may also choose the heritage tomato salad; BBQ baby gems with anchovy dripping; and charred couchettes with chicory and Stilton.  Good kale is not something one looks for in London, but the kale and Parmesan salad at Blacklock was truly phenomenal.

(Top left to right): Beef dripping fries, summer salad, kale & Parmesan salad; (bottom left) Blacklock’s fabulous sweet potato. Photo: Scott Harrah

The beef dripping chips were crispy and light. We were especially impressed with the ash-roasted sweet potato. As Americans, we were apprehensive about just how sweet potatoes–in many ways a staple of the U.S. diet (especially in the South)–would be prepared in Britain. We’ve never had a sweet potato like the one served at Blacklock. It was gloriously roasted and charred to perfection, bringing out the flavor of the sweet potato without the need for all the brown sugar and marshmallows we use in the USA. Wouldn’t it be nice if the chefs at Blacklock would share their secret for us so we could prepare 10-hour ash-roasted sweet potatoes for this year’s Thanksgiving dinner?

The main attraction at Blacklock, of course, is the meat. We hear the folks who worked with the famous Hawksmoor chain in Britain are behind Blacklock, so we knew the meat would be awesome. We have not seen a place abroad that serves up beef, pork and lamb in such a down-home, American-style. In the USA, barbecue joints from Seattle to San Diego, Kansas City to Houston, Dallas to Detroit to Memphis and Manhattan boast about their special “rubs” and sauces. Barbecue is almost a cult to some, as endless “Top 10 Best Barbecue Joints” shows on American cable TV attest. So call good barbecue-style meat a novelty in the United Kingdom if you must. The fact that Blacklock doesn’t have any signature sauce for its chops is what makes it totally unlike North American barbecue joints.

We relished the smoky, succulent pork loin, pork belly and pork rib, as well as the tender beef rump. Although we are not normally big on lamb, Blacklock’s lamb cutlet and lamb T-bone were full, moist and sumptuous, with no gamey aftertaste. The meat is piled on flatbread underneath, to soak up all the savory juices. Sauces include green sauce, chili hollandaise, béarnaise, garlic marrow spread and onions and gravy. All go great with the meat.

Blacklock Soho’s decadent white chocolate cheesecake, served with berry sauce. Photo: Scott Harrah

For dessert, we chose a seriously decadent white chocolate cheesecake that came with a sauce of divine strawberries, blueberries and sugar, served with a smile by a bubbly woman named Kelly. It was simply heavenly and a nice topper to a spectacular meal.

What’s also amazing is the fast service at Blacklock. Staff are all courteous and give helpful suggestions. For a pre-theatre carnivore’s bacchanal in a hip setting, one cannot go wrong with this place.

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published June 29, 2017
Reviewed on June 22, 2017 in London

CHOP TILL YOU DROP: Located in a basement in London’s Soho, near all West End theatres, Blacklock has great steaks & chops. Photo: Courtesy of Blacklock Soho

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