By Scott Harrah

Indian food in London in nothing out of the ordinary, but Dishoom in Covent Garden offers Indian food with a unique twist: Indian breakfast with a Persian accent.

Modeled after the original Bombay Cafes in India, back when the city was actually called Bombay (not Mumbai), Dishoom is a Parsi café (Parsis were Zoroastrians who immigrated to India from Iran in the 19th century). The cafes reached their peak at approximately 500 in the 1950s, after India gained its independence, but have now dwindled to “fewer than 30.” Dishoom pays tribute to these multicultural tea rooms of the subcontinent.

Reading the menu at Dishoom explains everything you need to know, as many items contain a short history lesson about Parsi cuisine and culture in India. The breakfast menu contains the following under Cooked Breakfasts: “The Parsi bodybuilders—whose portraits hang from the walls of Yazdani café—famously consumed several eggs a day to attain their muscular physiques. These breakfasts would satisfy any candidate for the coveted Mr. Zoroastrian crown.”

HEARTY PARSI-STYLE EGGS, TOAST & BACON: Kejriwal, described as “two fried eggs on chili cheese toast,” served with three rashers of bacon. Photo: Scott Harrah

On a mid-June morning, we stopped in for coffee, orange juice and Kejriwal, described as “two fried eggs on chili cheese toast. A favourite of the well-to-do Willington Club, the first such Bombay institution to admit natives; the dish is reputedly named for the member who kept asking for it. (Not to be confused with Arvind Kejriwal, leader of India’s Aam Aadmi—common man’s political party.)”

The eggs were spicy, a bit on the greasy side, with dark orange yolks (all egg dishes are made with Buford Brown eggs, a type of British egg from a breed of chicken that lays dark brown eggs with a thick shell).

Other breakfast choices include the Bombay omelette (with chopped tomato, onion, coriander and green chili, served with grilled tomato and fire toast). There is also Akuri, spicy scrambled eggs with pau beans and grilled tomato.

We also tried three rashers of bacon (supplied by The Ginger Pig). The bacon was hearty and meatier than the American bacon with which we’re familiar. Those looking for something lighter can choose from masala beans, grilled tomato and grilled mushrooms as a side.

One can also enjoy Dishoom’s naan rolls. Choose from the bacon naan roll, sausage naan roll and the egg naan roll.

Those not into eggs can enjoy a variety of fruit, grains and breads. Choose from fruit and yogurt (with fresh mango, grapes, strawberries and honeydew melon) and “topped with creamy yogurt infused with Keralan vanilla pod, and the London Honey Co’s excellent Buckinghamshire honey.” Also, there is house granola; bun maska, “to be dipped into your spicy chai”; and fire toast, “thick slices of bloomer bread, buttered and thrown onto the grill where they become char-striped,” served with pineapple-pink peppercorn jam and orange marmalade with star anise.

Best of all, almost everything is under 10 pounds, so you can have a filling breakfast without breaking your budget.

Unfortunately, we were not able to try Dishoom for dinner because they do not accept reservations for small groups. Reservations are taken after 5:45pm for groups of 6 or more. However, reservations for groups of any size are taken for breakfast and lunch.

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published July 9, 2015
Reviewed in London on June 18, 2015

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ASSIMILATION VS. CULTURAL DIVIDE: Indian culture in Britain is celebrated with glorious results in the new London hit ‘Bend It Like Beckham The Musical.’ Photo: Eliie Kurttz

BEND IT LIKE BECKHAM THE MUSICAL
Book by Paul Mayeda Berges & Gurinder Chadha
Music by Howard Goodall
Lyrics by Charles Hart
Directed by Gurinder Chadha
Choreographed by Aletta Collins
Phoenix Theatre
Charing Cross Road
London, United Kingdom
(0843 316 1082), www.benditlikebeckhamthemusical.uk

By David NouNou

Assimilation vs. cultural divide, honor to family vs. love for a sport, dashed hopes vs. new dreams are all the delightful components of this thoroughly modern and enjoyable musical based on the 2002 film of the same name. The film Bend It Like Beckham is expansive in nature but has the capability of being done into a musical. Furthermore, the creators and the design team were wise enough to know to go big and luxe and not to skimp on characters, extras, sets or costumes because in order for this story to succeed. It is the only way to go.

Jess (Natalie Dew) is an 18-year-old Indian girl living in Southall, London that is dominated primarily by Indians and the Indian culture. She is smart, pretty and modern but, like so many of her generation, is divided between the English lifestyle and her parental heritage culture. She loves football (our soccer) but her parents forbid it. It is not right for a girl to play sports, they tell her, believing it is better to learn the art of cooking. Also, her sister Pinky (Preeya Kalidas), is getting married and this causes further dilemmas for Jess because she has duties as the sister of the bride. On a fortuitous day while practicing in the park with her friend Tony, Jess runs into Jules (Lauren Samuels) who asks her to join the women’s football team to compete nationally. This is Jess’s dream come true but ultimately it’s her parent’s nightmare. Now the conflicts are set in motion.

Gurinder Chadha was the director of the movie; he is now co-author of the book and also the director of the show. Like so many before him, who do both the writing and directing, this creates a conflict of interest. The writer side never wants any line of his to be cut and the director side never sees when the show is running too long and things become repetitious. The score is an utter delight, thanks to the music of Howard Goodall and the lyrics by Charles Hart (in America known for Phantom of the Opera); they have fused the Eastern and Western cultures’ music in a rhythmic style that always propels the story forward. Yes, there are some extemporaneous songs by minor characters, but they add to the charm of the musical.

The performances are all fine, notably Natalie Dew as Jess, the gorgeous Preeya Kalidas (wonder if she ever competed for Miss Universe?) as her sister Pinky, Tony Jayawardena and Natasha Jayetileke as Mr. and Mrs. Bhamra, their parents, Jamal Andreas as Tony, Jess’s gay friend, and Jamie Campbell Bower as Joe, Jess’s coach. Lauren Samuels as Jules, the team captain, and Jess’s champion/friend is the weak link, not strong enough in the part to be a leader and also plays it very one dimensionally.

There is a lot to savor in this show and enjoy, especially its bringing different cultures, age groups, and families together. As an American, I most enjoyed how the British know how to fuse their various cultures with harmony; in America they bring them together with violence. Definitely a pleasurable evening.

INDIA IN THE U.K.: The company of ‘Bend It Like Beckham The Musical’. Photo: Ellie Kurttz

ALL IN THE FAMILY: (left to right) Natasha Jayetileke, Natalie Dew, Tony Jayawardena & Preeya Kalidas in ‘Bend It Like Beckham The Musical.’ Photo: Ellie Kurttz

GIRL WITH A DREAM: Natalie Dew in ‘Bend It Like Beckham The Musical’ in London. Photo: Ellie Kurttz

SOUTHALL DREAMS: Natalie Dew in ‘Bend It Like Beckham The Musical.’ Photo: Ellie Kurttz

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published June 30, 2015
Reviewed at June 20, 2015 performance in London

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