A selection of specialties at Tamarind Kitchen, including (top) phav bhaji, a spiced vegetable curry served with spiced vegetables, fresh lemon & homemade methi milk bread. Lower left is biriyani, cooked with saffron rice, Tellicherry black pepper-spiced chicken, sealed under homemade flaky pastry.  Lower right is keema pav, lamb mince with spices & served with buttered masala pav. Photos courtesy of Tamarind Kitchen.

TAMARIND KITCHEN
167-169 Wardour Street
London, United Kingdom, W1F 8WR
Phone: 020 7287 4243
www.tamarindkitchen.co.uk

By Scott Harrah

LONDON—It’s often said the best Indian food outside of Mumbai is in London, and that’s certainly true in the case of Tamarind Kitchen, an upmarket Indian restaurant in Soho that’s a laid-back sister to a more formal location in posh Mayfair. It is right in the middle of Theatreland so it’s a great place for a quick bite before a West End show. Although it’s been open for five years, Tamarind Kitchen in Soho is still obviously a hotspot for Londoners and tourists alike because the place was packed on the Sunday evening we visited. With its dim lighting, wood paneling and upholstered furniture, the place has a unique vibe. It’s great for either an evening out or a pre-theatre dinner.

Americans are used to the hearty samosas and chicken tikka masala served in Indian restaurants back home, but Tamarind Kitchen offers a unique and more authentic twist on Indian food.  It is far less heavy than the greasy chicken tikka masala we get in New York, often served over rice.  Tamanrind Kitchen offers a healthier version of Indian specialties.

We started with a lychee cocktail that they normally serve with gin, but we opted for no alcohol because we were still jet-lagged after the long flight to Heathrow from JFK. Next, we had avocado chaat, a summery blend of sliced mango and avocado, in a tangy sauce served on top of small lettuce pieces. It was light and refreshing.  Next was raj kachori (mini wheat puris filled with various goodies), followed by black pepper chicken tikka. The chicken was filled with delightful chunks of black pepper that gave the meat the right amount of spice.

The chargrilled sea bass appetizer, with coconut and red chili glaze, was sweet but mildly spicy and just divine and not “ fishy” tasting at all (I’m not normally a big fish fan).  Best of all were the wild tandoori prawns, made from huge crustaceans flown in fresh from Nigeria. Meaty and perfectly spiced, they were gigantic, succulent and—dare I say it?—one of the best prawn dishes you’ll find on either side of the Atlantic.

For mains, we opted for the sinfully scrumptious butter chicken—gorgeous chunks of tender chicken breast floating in a buttery, tangy tomato cream sauce, and coastal prawns curry, served with light, fluffy naan bread instead of the heavy rice one usually gets in New York.  We especially enjoyed the kaali dal (house dal) black lentil sauce, which simmers all day in the kitchen and is a specialty at Tamarind Kitchen, according to our waiter. You’ve never tasted anything from the subcontinent as good as this. It is great for dipping in the naan.

We were especially impressed by the hospitality of General Manager Vipin Magoon and our waiter. Unfortunately we did not get our waiter’s name but he went above and beyond what any waiter normally does and made our visit especially memorable.

A scrumptious mango kulfi ice cream was served for dessert. It was light with a wonderfully summery mango taste — a great ending to a wonderful meal. If you love Indian cuisine and plan to visit London soon, Tamarind Kitchen should be at the top of your list of restaurants to visit.

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published July 13, 2022
Reviewed on June 12, 2022 in London

Avocado chaat at Tamarind Kitchen. Photo: StageZine.

Chargrilled sea bass at Tamarind Kitchen. Photo: StageZine.

Raj kachori, mini puri filled with crunchy shells & covered in yogurt, tamarind & mint chutney. Photo: StageZine.

Delicious mango kulfi ice cream. Photo: StageZine.

A mixed platter of black pepper chicken tikka, lamb seekh kebab & wild prawns with a spicy dipping sauce. Photo: Courtesy of Tamarind Kitchen.

Phav bhaji, a chunky, buttery spiced vegetable curry served with fresh lemon with rolls. Photo courtesy of Tamarind Kitchen.

Tamarind Kitchen has a wide selection of cocktails & non-alcoholic cocktails available. Pictured is the Jasmine Club cocktail, with house-infused Beefeater gin, peach, rose & lemon. Photo: Courtesy of Tamarind Kitchen.

The post Tamarind Kitchen for upmarket Indian cuisine in London appeared first on StageZine.

By Scott Harrah

Indian food in London in nothing out of the ordinary, but Dishoom in Covent Garden offers Indian food with a unique twist: Indian breakfast with a Persian accent.

Modeled after the original Bombay Cafes in India, back when the city was actually called Bombay (not Mumbai), Dishoom is a Parsi café (Parsis were Zoroastrians who immigrated to India from Iran in the 19th century). The cafes reached their peak at approximately 500 in the 1950s, after India gained its independence, but have now dwindled to “fewer than 30.” Dishoom pays tribute to these multicultural tea rooms of the subcontinent.

Reading the menu at Dishoom explains everything you need to know, as many items contain a short history lesson about Parsi cuisine and culture in India. The breakfast menu contains the following under Cooked Breakfasts: “The Parsi bodybuilders—whose portraits hang from the walls of Yazdani café—famously consumed several eggs a day to attain their muscular physiques. These breakfasts would satisfy any candidate for the coveted Mr. Zoroastrian crown.”

HEARTY PARSI-STYLE EGGS, TOAST & BACON: Kejriwal, described as “two fried eggs on chili cheese toast,” served with three rashers of bacon. Photo: Scott Harrah

On a mid-June morning, we stopped in for coffee, orange juice and Kejriwal, described as “two fried eggs on chili cheese toast. A favourite of the well-to-do Willington Club, the first such Bombay institution to admit natives; the dish is reputedly named for the member who kept asking for it. (Not to be confused with Arvind Kejriwal, leader of India’s Aam Aadmi—common man’s political party.)”

The eggs were spicy, a bit on the greasy side, with dark orange yolks (all egg dishes are made with Buford Brown eggs, a type of British egg from a breed of chicken that lays dark brown eggs with a thick shell).

Other breakfast choices include the Bombay omelette (with chopped tomato, onion, coriander and green chili, served with grilled tomato and fire toast). There is also Akuri, spicy scrambled eggs with pau beans and grilled tomato.

We also tried three rashers of bacon (supplied by The Ginger Pig). The bacon was hearty and meatier than the American bacon with which we’re familiar. Those looking for something lighter can choose from masala beans, grilled tomato and grilled mushrooms as a side.

One can also enjoy Dishoom’s naan rolls. Choose from the bacon naan roll, sausage naan roll and the egg naan roll.

Those not into eggs can enjoy a variety of fruit, grains and breads. Choose from fruit and yogurt (with fresh mango, grapes, strawberries and honeydew melon) and “topped with creamy yogurt infused with Keralan vanilla pod, and the London Honey Co’s excellent Buckinghamshire honey.” Also, there is house granola; bun maska, “to be dipped into your spicy chai”; and fire toast, “thick slices of bloomer bread, buttered and thrown onto the grill where they become char-striped,” served with pineapple-pink peppercorn jam and orange marmalade with star anise.

Best of all, almost everything is under 10 pounds, so you can have a filling breakfast without breaking your budget.

Unfortunately, we were not able to try Dishoom for dinner because they do not accept reservations for small groups. Reservations are taken after 5:45pm for groups of 6 or more. However, reservations for groups of any size are taken for breakfast and lunch.

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published July 9, 2015
Reviewed in London on June 18, 2015

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