Acapulco, Mexico's Sun-Drenched Paradise

PARADISE AMERICANS SHOULD RE-DISCOVER: Acapulco, Mexico & one of its gorgeous beaches. Photo: ltgps.com

By Scott Harrah

Habla bien de Aca. The slogan, in Spanish, literally means “speak well of Acapulco.” Local business owners started putting up banners all over town and passing out “Habla bien de Aca” buttons to tourists after news of the grisly drug cartel massacres in 2010 and 2011 made headlines everywhere. The banners and slogan were a sign of solidarity and hope for Acapulqueños, distributed with pride and the same sort of we’re-taking-our-city-back-from-the-bad-guys spirit that New Yorkers felt after 9/11, when every inch of the five boroughs seemed to be draped in American flags.

Acapulco was once the playground of such Hollywood celebrities as the late Elizabeth Taylor (she married Mike Todd there), Rita Hayworth and Gregory Peck, Frank Sinatra, Eddie Fisher, countless others, and even British royalty, but its reputation as a “hotspot” has waned over the years as new Mexican resorts burst onto the scene. Acapulco (and the entire country of Mexico) may have received bad press recently about drug cartels and violence, but do not let news coverage of past crimes here scare you off as many were isolated incidents in non-tourist areas, and have been exaggerated in the media. In reality, Acapulco is no more dangerous than many large North American or European cities. It is truly sad that a few events have tarnished the image of one of the most scenic cities in the world. I last visited in February 2013, right after the New York Times and other major American media printed a front-page story saying a group of Spanish women were allegedly raped in an Acapulco villa. On our first night in Acapulco, we sat in a restaurant next to a disgusting, obnoxious tabloid reporter who kept trying to get some local Mexican men to dish sordid details about the alleged rape. The journalist boasted to the men that he had just covered a story of a prostitute being beaten up in Merida, Mexico on the Yucatan, and now his editors back in London wanted the scoop on the rape of the Spanish tourists who were from “prominent families.” Locals informed us that the villa was not even in Acapulco but several miles up the coast, and the “prominent” women involved were doing drugs, but the media falsely reported the crime happened in Acapulco. The press love to sensationalize these things, but when a real tragedy happens, such as Hurricane Manuel in September 2013, there is barely any coverage. When Manuel hit Acapulco, damanging homes and leaving locals on the street with no fresh water or food, there was almost no coverage in the USA, except for a few photos, mostly of a wayward crocodile in floodwater. “Crocs Infest Floodwater in Acapulco,” screamed the headline in a newspaper. The few articles published focused on past crime problems and not on the locals suffering after a catastrophic hurricane. So much for “fair and balanced” journalism.

This city, featuring mountains soaring up into the sky, dotted with luxury villas and skyscrapers, all overlooking Acapulco Bay, still maintains the beauty, near-perfect weather and Latin American charm that made it Mexico’s first true international resort as early as the 1920s, when the Prince of Wales (the future King Edward VII) visited and started recommending the city to aristocratic friends back in Europe. To me, Acapulco is as beautiful as anywhere in the Mediterranean and other sunbelt spots in the world. It reminds one a bit of Los Angeles, Rio de Janeiro, Barcelona and Cape Town rolled into one, with jagged mountains and urban sprawl overlooking the Pacific. It is also one of the most affordable beach destinations for Americans, making it worth a visit. A week here at a four or five-star hotel may cost just a fraction of what you would spend in the Caribbean or even other Mexican resort towns.

So, one might ask, why is Acapulco such a bargain and why have many Americans forgotten it? For starters, Acapulco is no larger marketed to Americans, but people from Mexico City, Europe and Canada still go in droves. Americans go to newer, trendier Mexican resort towns now, and there is indeed the crime problem in Acapulco, but it is not nearly as bad as the press say. (I cannot stress this enough. More on that later, folks). The cruiseships stopped going to Acapulco as a port of call when nervous tourists pressured the cruise companies to go to “safer” cities. Just three to four years ago, one would see several huge oceanliners in the bay per week. Now, there are none. This has devastated the local economy, and the ongoing bias in the world media just makes it worse.

For now, let’s focus on the positive things and look at the myriad amenities and activities this one-of-a-kind tropical city has to offer.

I visited Acapulco for nearly a decade. I’ve been all over Europe, the United States, Canada, South America and Australia, so many I know do not understand why I kept going back to Acapulco. There are many reasons why Acapulco is one of my favorite places to escape the brutal New York winter. I always stay at the Fiesta Americana Villas Acapulco because it has the best views of the city, the best service, attentive staff and management, and everyone treats both my travel companion and I like family and know us by name.

THE WEATHER: There is simply no better weather in the winter months (November through April) anywhere in the Western hemisphere than in Acapulco. Go to Cancun, Miami or many Caribbean islands and you’re bound to have several days of overcast skies and rain. That’s hardly ever the case in “Aca,” as locals and repeat visitors affectionately call the city. Acapulco winters consist of day after sunny day when the mercury rises into the high 80s to low 90s and never gets much colder than 78 degrees Fahrenheit at night. There’s rarely a drop of rain and there’s always a soothing sea breeze by the water, but it gets a bit humid if you leave the beach, hop in a taxicab and head up into the mountains to one of the city’s many five-star gourmet restaurants, complete with panoramic views you won’t find anywhere else in the world.

CONDESA BEACH: This is the main beach on Acapulco Bay, the area where hotels began popping up in the 1940s and 1950s. This section is also called “The Golden Zone.” Many of the present big hotels were built in the 1970s and early 1980s, but the area has been in decline since then. However, this is a must-see regardless of where one spends a trip in Acapulco. Even if one doesn’t stay in a hotel in the Condesa area, one hasn’t really visited Acapulco without seeing this part of town because here is where you will find many shops, restaurants, and the large, modern Galleries Diana shopping mall. It is, quite simply, classic Acapulco, a mix of old and new, and has lots of charm.

Along the waterfront, you will find numerous restaurants, outdoor discos and bars blasting dance music and classic rock, a bungee jump, and more. Some of these establishments are a bit seedy, but no more so than in Cancun and other popular Mexican resorts. It is simply a carnival atmosphere, with a South-of-the-Border twist, without annoying, alcohol-obsessed American college kids.

The beach itself features palapas (thatched beach canopies made of dried palm fronds) and many local vendors selling everything from food to junk jewelry and tacky souvenirs. Avoid buying food from these people, because the sanitation standards by which the tacos, burritos, seafood and freshly cut fruit are prepared is questionable at best. You will see signs from the hotels warning you that they are not responsible for the quality of the food sold by beach vendors.

Thanks to the efforts of local officials, the water in Acapulco Bay is much cleaner now than it was the first few years I went, so definitely go for a swim. The bay is usually as warm as bathwater, but be careful of the strong current and riptides. There are no lifeguards, so don’t swim out too far. For a safer dip in the water, opt for one of the enclosed cove areas, such the one near the Fiesta Americana Villas Acapulco Hotel. Here, you can wade out into crystal-clear shallow water that is always calm because surrounding rocks act as a natural seawall, protecting you from the strong Pacific currents. The Fiesta Americana Villas Acapulco is one of the best seaside resort hotels in Acapulco. Although it is now more than 40 years old, they are constantly renovating it, and the service is impeccable. Although it is a bit pricey, it is well worth the extra money to be treated like a king by the attentive staff.

PUNTA DIAMANTE: Directly on the Pacific Ocean, minutes from the airport, this is one of the newer, more upscale areas of Acapulco. At one time, this section was primarily home to the Fairmont Acapulco Princess Hotel and Resort, with its famous golf courses, multiple hotel towers and bungalows. Today, the Diamante area is quite developed and features numerous high-rise condos and timeshare resorts, as well as the posh La Isla Shopping Center.

Diamante appeals mostly to people who want more privacy and a resort-like environment, with golf courses and tennis courts. The beach here is much larger than Condesa, with a longer strip of sand, but do not even think of going onto the sand with your bare feet. The tropical sun is quite intense here, and there are fewer buildings to offer shade, so it’s easy to burn one’s feet by just walking a few steps. Walking in flip-flop sandals is essential. In addition, unlike Condesa Beach, there are few protected coves, so beware of the strong currents.

High-rise condos and hotels here have great views of the Pacific, but there is not much to see at night in this part of the city. In addition, it’s about a 15-minute taxicab ride into the more populated Condesa area and Old Acapulco.

I stayed at the Fairmont Acapulco Princess in 2011 for a few days, and while the hotel was great, I missed the breathtaking views and the hustle and bustle of the Condesa. I don’t play golf or tennis, so I was bored after two days. However, Punta Diamante has many fans. A woman from Houston at the Princess told me that she and her friends preferred the seclusion of the Diamante area because they loved its sense of isolation and, to them, this section was more palatable to Americans.

PUERTO MARQUES BAY: This is one of the least developed areas of Acapulco, situatued on a calm bay between the mountains. Although there are many private condos there, you can still visit to swim in the calm water. If you have big bucks to spend, there is the world-famous Banyan Tree Acapulco Cabo Marques, a five-star property featuring private villas and a star-studded clientele that demands privacy.

RESTAURANTS: Acapulco has some of the finest restaurants in Mexico, and I’m not talking about the scary-looking taco stands you will find on the streets. If you want traditional “local” fare, opt for El Fogon, a Mexican chain. Avoid the restaurants along the strip of Condesa Beach (with all the carnival-style barkers obnoxiously trying to get you to go inside) and instead take a cab to such places as Su Casa, just a short drive away and situated on top of a huge hill overlooking the city. Here, you will find good Mexican food and American staples like chicken and steak. The place is actually situated on the owner’s home, and his wife is American, so everyone speaks perfect English. The city’s absolute best restaurant is Zibu, situated on the side of a mountain, overlooking Puerto Marques Bay (but with no view) and featuring five-star gourmet cuisine, from steak to seafood, served with an Asian flair. Carmenere is a great French bistro inside of a strip mall. Most of the waiters here don’t speak English and the owner isn’t fond of Americans who complain (see the reviews on TripAdvisor), but go on a weeknight when it is not busy and savor the lobster from Cabo San Lucas and numerous French delicacies, and they have a great winelist. Finally, for a great European, open-air waterfront restaurant with a view of the bay and posh surroundings, Becco is fabulous (but rather expensive).

GETTING THERE: Up until 2011, there were many nonstop weekly flights from New York, Minneapolis, Chicago and Atlanta, but it is now hard to get to Acapulco because one must connect in either Houston or Mexico City. Airlines that fly to Acapulco from the USA include Delta, United and Interjet (a Jet Blue-style Mexican airline) via Houston or Mexico City. Staying overnight in Houston or Mexico City is sometimes the downside to a trip to Acapulco, so do some research while shopping for airfares online. A side trip to Mexico City or Houston can be easily planned if you have a 24-hour layover there.

ENJOY ACAPULCO & DON’T LISTEN TO THE PRESS: In a nutshell, do not listen to the horror stories you may have read in the American press. Big cities in Europe, New York City and such “family friendly” hotspots as Orlando and Miami are far more dangerous than Acapulco. The U.S. Government has finally lifted the Acapulco travel warnings (which were silly in the first place). Exercise caution as you would anywhere else. Take cabs at night and don’t carry around huge amounts of cash or credit cards. Go to Acapulco and experience it as the sun-drenched paradise it truly is.