Foxlow Soho: British classics pre- or post-theatre in casual setting | London Dining

FOXLOW SOHO: Casual interior of the restaurant. Photo: Courtesy of Foxlow Soho

FOXLOW SOHO
8-10 Lower James Street
London, United Kingdom
W1F 9EL
020 7680 2710
www.foxlow.co.uk

By Scott Harrah

We’re huge fans of the Hawksmoor chain of British steakhouses throughout the U.K. so we jumped at the chance to dine at Foxlow Soho, brought to you by Will Beckett and Huw Gott, the two men who founded Hawksmoor. Foxlow Soho claims it serves the same British produce and meats that Hawksmoor does, but has a more relaxed, casual ambience and food that caters a bit more to the health-conscious millennial crowd at a more affordable price (the average cost of dinner for two with drinks is £50 to £70). The décor has a slight American diner vibe as well.

The menu is a bit different than the Hawksmoor restaurants. Yes, you will find steaks and seafood, but also healthier alternatives like chicken burgers and vegan options like spice-roasted cauliflower with chickpeas, wilted spinach and curried aubergine (eggplant) sauce.

Our server suggested the spice-roasted cauliflower as a starter, and it was a great choice, the spice and curried aubergine brought out the flavor of the cauliflower and the chick peas gave it a Middle Eastern touch.

Next we opted for the kale, avocado and fresh herb salad with toasted seeds. This was a delightfully summery concoction, with huge, crunchy kale and the light consistency of the avocado. My dining partner chose the five-pepper Brixham squid with a tangy deviled mayonnaise. He said the squid was tender, not overcooked and the peppers and mayo helped enhance the flavor of the squid.

For the main course, we both decided on steak. I had the sirloin, dry-aged for 30 days, while my partner chose the ribeye, also dry-aged for 30 days. When one is used to great American steaks like we are, it is always a risky selection ordering beef abroad. We have had great British steaks at the Hawksmoor and also at many restaurants on the continent. My sirloin, served medium rare as I like it, was bold and nicely marbled, but a bit too tough for what I’m used to. My partner was underwhelmed by his ribeye because he said it was full of gristle. However, we were able to enjoy our steaks regardless with some tasty HP sauce and also tucked into the deliciously salty chips (fries).

One wonders if Foxlow’s other meat mains, including Merrifield Farm chicken breast or Dingley Dell pork ribeye, might be better choices than the beef. Chicken and beef burgers are also available, as well as a set menu.

For dessert, we decided to split one of our favorite British sweets, sticky toffee pudding with clotted cream. Foxlow’s sticky toffee pudding is decadent indeed, and finished off the meal quite nicely with a steaming cup of café Americano.

Foxlow also has a number of innovative cocktails available as well as an extensive wine list. If you are in the Soho area, wanting a quick bite before a West End show that won’t break the budget, Foxlow is a good choice.

Open for Brunch, Lunch and Dinner. For bookings, email soho@foxlow.com or please visit https://www.foxlow.co.uk/

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published July 5, 2018
Reviewed on June 23, 2018 in London

SPICE-ROASTED CAULIFLOWER: With chick peas. Photo: Scott Harrah

CHOICE STARTERS: (Top) Five-pepper Brixham squid with a tangy deviled mayonnaise. (Bottom) Kale, avocado & fresh herb salad with toasted seeds. Photo: Scott Harrah

STEAKS & CHIPS: The dry-aged sirloin (front) and ribeye (back) served with mushrooms & great salty chips (fries). Photo: Scott Harrah