‘STEAKS AND SIDES’: Mouth-watering steaks and various sides at Hawksmoor Edinburgh. Photo: Hawksmoor Edinburgh.

HAWKSMOOR
23 W. Register St., Edinburgh
EH2 2AA, United Kingdom
Menu: thehawksmoor.com
Phone: +44 131 526 4790
Reservations: thehawksmoor.com, opentable.co.uk, quandoo.co.uk

By Scott Harrah

EDINBURGH, UK—Planning to spend a few days in Edinburgh for the 2023 Edinburgh Fringe Festival (August 4 to August 28, 2023) and not sure where to have a great meal before or after a show? Look no further than Hawksmoor Edinburgh, located on St. Andrew Square, near all the theatres in the Scottish capital.  Hawksmoor is a chain of upmarket British steakhouses with many locations in London as well as one in Manchester, Edinburgh and Dublin and a restaurant in New York. The Edinburgh Hawksmoor is located in the former headquarters of the Royal Bank of Scotland and is spacious and roomy, the perfect place to relax after walking around the hills and cobblestones of this medieval city. Americans often think of haggis when Scottish food is mentioned, but one won’t find any here. Instead, diners can choose entrees ranging from the finest Scottish beef to fresh local seafood. We’ve been to two of the Hawksmoor locations in London—both outstanding—and the Edinburgh Hawksmoor is also excellent. Whenever we are in the UK, eating at a Hawksmoor at least once is always a must.

The restaurant offers a limited “Edinburgh Express Menu” for anyone wanting a pre- or post-theatre meal, with two to three courses ranging from  £25 to £28.

We decided to enjoy the full Hawksmoor experience after a long day in Edinburgh. Hawksmoor has an extensive menu of various cocktails, but I enjoyed a couple glasses of Braida “Hawksmoor Blend” Barbera/Merlot 2019 which went great with the gluttonous amount of meat I ate that evening. We were served by the excellent Heather and general manager Thiago.

I  started with the half native lobster with garlic butter while my dining partner chose the Isle of Mull scallops, roasted with white port and garlic. British lobster tastes similar to Maine or Nova Scotia lobster but has a slightly different consistency and a lighter taste, yet is brilliant nonetheless. My partner said his scallops were light and fresh. Both appetizers were not too heavy, and that’s important when one is about to indulge in Hawksmoor’s world-famous steaks.

Edinburgh Hawksmoor has an impressive menu of sides, from triple-cooked chips to beef-dripping fries, mash and gravy, macaroni and cheese, creamed spinach, Hawksmoor Caesar salad, buttered lettuce and herb salad to maple bacon. We chose the triple-cooked chips, macaroni and cheese and creamed spinach. The chips and creamed spinach were amazing. The macaroni and cheese was good too, but not as creamy as what one finds back in the USA.

The Hawksmoor is famous for its steaks, and you can choose from bone-in prime rib, porterhouse, T-Bone and Chateaubriand (all three of which are big portions, so sharing is recommended). Also available are the fillet (275g), rib-eye (350g), sirloin (350g) and rump (300g), served with a selection of sauces, ranging from  béarnaise, peppercorn, bone marrow gravy to anchovy hollandaise or Stilton hollandaise.

The large cuts of Chateaubriand, Bone-in Prime Rib, Porterhouse and T-Bone are huge indeed—strictly for true carnivores. As the menu says, “These steaks are priced per 100g and are dependent on what we have in stock. They are big and don’t generally come any smaller than 500g. Good if you’re hungry or for two to share.”

I had the Chateaubriand—probably way too much Scottish beef for one person—but it was one of the best steaks I’ve ever had, cooked medium rare the way I like it, with Hawksmoor’s amazing peppercorn sauce on the side. The steak was so good; however, I really didn’t need much sauce. My dining partner said his T-bone was superb as well, cooked medium, and he had trouble finishing it because the steak was so big.

Although we were already stuffed, we could not resist sharing the Hawksmoor’s famous sticky toffee pudding with clotted cream. Most Americans have only seen this standard dessert in the British Isles on TV cooking shows from the U.K. because it is almost never found in American restaurants.  We’re fans of the fattening treat and have tried it in many British restaurants, but nobody does sticky toffee pudding like Hawksmoor. It consists of steamed sponge cake filled with chopped dates and sultanas (golden raisins) and covered with a toffee sauce. We asked our friendly waitress Heather whether the dessert is better with vanilla ice cream on top or clotted cream. She kindly offered to bring us both vanilla ice cream and clotted cream.

Clotted cream, for Americans who have never tried it, is sometimes called Devonshire or Cornish cream and is made by heating full cow’s milk cream and then leaving it to cool, and it eventually forms “clots.” We tried the pudding with both the ice cream and clotted cream. When Heather asked us which we preferred—ice cream or clotted cream?—we had no definitive answer as Hawksmoor’s sticky toffee pudding is a sinful delight either way.

Whether you are in Edinburgh for the Fringe Festival in August or just visiting Edinburgh as a tourist, Hawksmoor Edinburgh is a definite “must” on your restaurant list as they have some of the best steaks in Scotland.

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published July 15, 2023
Reviewed on June 13, 2023 in London

Isle of Mull scallops. Photo: Scott Harrah.

Half native lobster. Photo: Hawksmoor Edinburgh.

T-bone at Hawksmoor Edinburgh. Photo: Scott Harrah.

Chateaubriand at Hawksmoor Edinburgh. Photo: Scott Harrah.

Hawksmoor’s famous sticky toffee pudding with both clotted cream and vanilla ice cream on the side. Photo: Scott Harrah.

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Gong Bao prawns with cashew nuts at Barshu in London. Photo: StageZine.

Barshu
28 Frith St
London W1D 5LF
United Kingdom
+44 20 7287 8822
https://barshurestaurant.co.uk/
Reservations: opentable.co.uk

By Scott Harrah

LONDON—Barshu is an institution in London, and for good reason.  Known for its spicy Sichuan food served in a Soho restaurant full of Chinese lanterns and Asian wooden decorations, this is the perfect place for a nice Chinese meal before or after a West End show.

We visited Barshu for the first time on our last night in London. We arrived at 5:30pm after a matinee of Back to the Future: The Musical. We were surprised Barshu was so packed and noisy at such an early hour—it is obviously popular—and fortunately, the hostess took us upstairs to the less hectic second level where we could dine in peace. For starters, our waiter suggested a cucumber dish.  It was a salad of sliced cucumbers coated with a thick green dressing. Honestly, it was not the most appetizing-looking dish but don’t let looks fool you. It is one of the best cucumber dishes you will ever eat. We could have devoured more of it for the main course. We asked what the dressing was made of and were told it was a “family secret,” so we just enjoyed it. Honestly, it was the most delicious appetizer we had the entire time in London.

In addition, we had the vegetable dumplings—small pieces of veggie-filled dough covered with a spicy chili oil and sprinkled with sesame seeds. These were light and fluffy, and the chili oil gave the dumplings a unique flavor without being too hot. We also tried the fish-fragrant prawns—simply lightly breaded prawns with a spicy dipping sauce. In reality, “fish fragrant” refers to the type of seasoning used and the prawns do not have a fishy taste at all. Those who aren’t fans of spicy Chinese should be forewarned that Barshu serves traditionally spicy Sichuan dishes, but none of it is anything one cannot handle. However, do ask your server about the level of spiciness because it varies from dish to dish.

For the main courses, we opted for Gong Bao prawns with cashew nuts and stir-fried chicken with black bean sauce. I split both with my dining partner.  The prawns were fresh and firm, the sauce was not too spicy and the cashew nuts gave the dish a great crunchy texture. The stir-fried chicken was sumptuous, the black bean sauce was not too overpowering, and the green and red peppers were crispy and spicy but did not burn at all.

Best of all, Barshu’s Sichuan specialties are not loaded with the MSG so prevalent in American Chinese food. Barshu is strictly upmarket and traditional Sichuan Chinese, so there is no need for them to prepare their food with anything but savory spices, chili oils and all kinds of delectable fragrant and palate-pleasing herbs. If one is looking for a hearty, authentic Sichuan meal in Soho, Barshu is a wise choice.

Published July 24, 2022
Reviewed in London on June 16, 2022

Barshu’s cucumbers made with a secret recipe. Don’t let looks fool you as this is one of the best Chinese appetizers you will ever taste. Photo: StageZine.

Vegetable dumplings at Barshu. Photo: StageZine.

Fish-fragrant prawns at Barshu. Photo: StageZine.

Stir-fried chicken with black bean sauce at Barshu. Photo: StageZine.

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Balthazar’s renowned steak frites—the dish that made them famous in NY. Photo: StageZine.

Balthazar London
4-6 Russell St.
London
WC2B 5HZ
United Kingdom
balthazarlondon.com
+44 20 3301 1155

Reservations: capricebookings.com

By Scott Harrah

LONDON—I’ve been a fan of Balthazar in New York for as long as it’s been open down in SoHo.  The classic French Brasserie in Manhattan used to be the “in” place in the city—it was nearly impossible to get a reservation when it first opened back in 1997 (and is still busy on weekends in 2022). StageZine has visited London annually since 2015 to review West End shows and great pre-theatre restaurants, but the pandemic forced us to stay home the past two years.  When we were booking our return to London, I was thrilled to learn about the London Balthazar and knew we had to give it a try.

Comparisons between the London Balthazar and the one in New York are inevitable, but I never thought it could live up to the one back home. I was wrong. Balthazar London has many similarities to New York’s but is actually better in most respects.  Located in Covent Garden near the Theatre Royal, Drury Lane and Royal Opera House, it is right in the heart of the touristy theatre district but that’s not a bad thing, especially if one is dining here before catching a show.  Balthazar London seems slightly bigger, roomier, not as cramped between tables and not as crazy as the one in New York, but has a better energy and vibe. Its scenic view of Covent Garden is marvelous, and it is great to see people having fun again outdoors.

London’s Balthazar is located in the Flower Cellars building next to the Covent Garden Piazza. We were here for a sumptuous dinner between shows and were seeing The Glass Menagerie with Amy Adams that night, so we did not have much time to marvel at the surroundings. The service was fast and courteous, and our waitress was simply lovely.

I started with a glass of merlot and the baby gem salad, with lettuce, tomato, avocado, asparagus, mixed herbs and champagne vinaigrette. The salad was fresh and summery, and the dressing was light and not overpowering. The avocados were sliced right on top of the salad beautifully. The wine was outstanding as well.

My dining partner opted for saumon fumé au chêne (oak-smoked salmon), served with capers, rocket, butter and granary toast. He said the salmon was fresh, firm, wonderfully smoked and unbelievably savory.

I chose my all-time favorite, steak frites, for the main course. This is what Balthazar is famous for, of course. It was eight ounces of tender beef cooked medium rare, just the way I like it, with a béarnaise sauce. One didn’t need to use much of the sauce because the steak was so good and hearty. The steak is entrecôte, which we simply call a “rib eye” in the USA, but it was as tender as any filet mignon.  The frites were crisp and perfectly browned, with just a bit of salt.

My partner enjoyed the grilled lobster with garlic butter and chips. He said it could not be fresher and was grilled to perfection.

To finish off the meal, I was really too stuffed for dessert but decided to enjoy a light raspberry sorbet served with a cookie. It went great with a cup of café Americano and was the perfect ending to a great pre-theatre meal. Balthazar London is truly a great sister restaurant to the New York institution and we cannot wait to return next year while in London.

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published July 22, 2022
Reviewed on June 15, 2022 in London

Grilled lobster with garlic butter & chips. Photo: StageZine.

Baby gem salad, with lettuce, tomato, avocado, asparagus, mixed herbs & champagne vinaigrette. Photo: StageZine.

Saumon fumé au chêne (oak-smoked salmon), served with capers, rocket, butter & granary toast. Photo: StageZine.

Raspberry sorbet & a cookie. Photo: StageZine.

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An assortment of dim sum dumplings. Photo: Courtesy of BaoziInn.

BaoziInn
24 Romilly Street
London, United Kingdom
W1D 5AH
02017 287 3266
www.baoziinn.com

By Scott Harrah

LONDON—It had been four years since we last ate at London’s dim sum staple BaoziInn and we decided to revisit the place once again because we enjoyed it so much on a previous visit. We’re happy to report Baozilnn is still outstanding.

The restaurant is cozy and small, with Georgian sash windows, Asian lanterns and decorative shutters. BaoziInn, which means “people’s canteen” in Chinese, is brought to diners by Wei Shao, who made a name on the London restaurant scene with Barshu, a popular Szechuan hotspot (which we also tried and a review will be published soon). BaoziInn is famous for “Northern Chinese street food” and the first in London to offer “Cantonese Dim Sum with Szechuan and Hunan influences.”

We were here for a quick dinner before catching a West End show and wanted something light. Two wonderful women and a gentleman served us and we asked them all for suggestions. We started with the Chengdu Jiaozi, delightful crescent-shaped prawn dumplings with water chestnuts, garlic and chili oil.

Next, we tried the chicken skewer in caramelized sauce, which is simply grilled chicken with spices on skewers, sort of Chinese-style kebabs.  The sauce complimented the chicken brilliantly.  This was followed by the Siu Mai platter, a delicious assortment of steamed Chinese dumplings filled with spicy prawns and chicken.

The main event was the BaoziInn Dim Sum Platter featuring prawn dumplings, prawns with chives and chiu chow (another spicy chili oil) with prawns.

Finally, we had the “paper wrap” prawns with cheese. These are pastry-style prawn-filled dumplings topped with sesame seeds and served with an amazing dip. They were tasty and filling, especially with the dip.

The dim sum is reasonably priced, but there is a minimum charge of £15.00 per head, VAT included. In addition to dim sum, BaoziInn serves a wide variety of noodles, tofu and vegetarian dishes. The bar also has a nice selection of world wines and handpicked beers.

The food is all so light and made without the MSG so common in American versions of Chinese food. The food is fresh and made without artificial food coloring and less sugar, and does not have the “heavy” consistency of Chinese food in America. If you plan to visit London soon—either before or after the theatre or just for a great lunch or night out— Baozilnn is a must for anyone who loves dim sum.

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published July 17, 2022
Reviewed on June 14, 2022 in London

Delicious dumplings at BaoziInn. Photo: StageZine.

Paper wrap prawns with cheese dip. Photo: StageZine.

Chicken skewers in caramelized sauce. Photo: StageZine.

Another assortment of dim sum. Photo: StageZine.

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A selection of specialties at Tamarind Kitchen, including (top) phav bhaji, a spiced vegetable curry served with spiced vegetables, fresh lemon & homemade methi milk bread. Lower left is biriyani, cooked with saffron rice, Tellicherry black pepper-spiced chicken, sealed under homemade flaky pastry.  Lower right is keema pav, lamb mince with spices & served with buttered masala pav. Photos courtesy of Tamarind Kitchen.

TAMARIND KITCHEN
167-169 Wardour Street
London, United Kingdom, W1F 8WR
Phone: 020 7287 4243
www.tamarindkitchen.co.uk

By Scott Harrah

LONDON—It’s often said the best Indian food outside of Mumbai is in London, and that’s certainly true in the case of Tamarind Kitchen, an upmarket Indian restaurant in Soho that’s a laid-back sister to a more formal location in posh Mayfair. It is right in the middle of Theatreland so it’s a great place for a quick bite before a West End show. Although it’s been open for five years, Tamarind Kitchen in Soho is still obviously a hotspot for Londoners and tourists alike because the place was packed on the Sunday evening we visited. With its dim lighting, wood paneling and upholstered furniture, the place has a unique vibe. It’s great for either an evening out or a pre-theatre dinner.

Americans are used to the hearty samosas and chicken tikka masala served in Indian restaurants back home, but Tamarind Kitchen offers a unique and more authentic twist on Indian food.  It is far less heavy than the greasy chicken tikka masala we get in New York, often served over rice.  Tamanrind Kitchen offers a healthier version of Indian specialties.

We started with a lychee cocktail that they normally serve with gin, but we opted for no alcohol because we were still jet-lagged after the long flight to Heathrow from JFK. Next, we had avocado chaat, a summery blend of sliced mango and avocado, in a tangy sauce served on top of small lettuce pieces. It was light and refreshing.  Next was raj kachori (mini wheat puris filled with various goodies), followed by black pepper chicken tikka. The chicken was filled with delightful chunks of black pepper that gave the meat the right amount of spice.

The chargrilled sea bass appetizer, with coconut and red chili glaze, was sweet but mildly spicy and just divine and not “ fishy” tasting at all (I’m not normally a big fish fan).  Best of all were the wild tandoori prawns, made from huge crustaceans flown in fresh from Nigeria. Meaty and perfectly spiced, they were gigantic, succulent and—dare I say it?—one of the best prawn dishes you’ll find on either side of the Atlantic.

For mains, we opted for the sinfully scrumptious butter chicken—gorgeous chunks of tender chicken breast floating in a buttery, tangy tomato cream sauce, and coastal prawns curry, served with light, fluffy naan bread instead of the heavy rice one usually gets in New York.  We especially enjoyed the kaali dal (house dal) black lentil sauce, which simmers all day in the kitchen and is a specialty at Tamarind Kitchen, according to our waiter. You’ve never tasted anything from the subcontinent as good as this. It is great for dipping in the naan.

We were especially impressed by the hospitality of General Manager Vipin Magoon and our waiter. Unfortunately we did not get our waiter’s name but he went above and beyond what any waiter normally does and made our visit especially memorable.

A scrumptious mango kulfi ice cream was served for dessert. It was light with a wonderfully summery mango taste — a great ending to a wonderful meal. If you love Indian cuisine and plan to visit London soon, Tamarind Kitchen should be at the top of your list of restaurants to visit.

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published July 13, 2022
Reviewed on June 12, 2022 in London

Avocado chaat at Tamarind Kitchen. Photo: StageZine.

Chargrilled sea bass at Tamarind Kitchen. Photo: StageZine.

Raj kachori, mini puri filled with crunchy shells & covered in yogurt, tamarind & mint chutney. Photo: StageZine.

Delicious mango kulfi ice cream. Photo: StageZine.

A mixed platter of black pepper chicken tikka, lamb seekh kebab & wild prawns with a spicy dipping sauce. Photo: Courtesy of Tamarind Kitchen.

Phav bhaji, a chunky, buttery spiced vegetable curry served with fresh lemon with rolls. Photo courtesy of Tamarind Kitchen.

Tamarind Kitchen has a wide selection of cocktails & non-alcoholic cocktails available. Pictured is the Jasmine Club cocktail, with house-infused Beefeater gin, peach, rose & lemon. Photo: Courtesy of Tamarind Kitchen.

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RETRO CHIC: VIVI in London, near most West End theatres. Photo: Courtesy of VIVI

VIVI
Centre Point
11 St Giles Passage, Square
London, United Kingdom, WC2H 8AP
vivirestaurant.co.uk

By Scott Harrah

LONDON⁠—VIVI is not only one of the best restaurants in London; it’s one of the best in Europe as well. This posh spot, which opened earlier this year in the Centre Point building, is close to all the West End theatres. Proximity to a show is crucial when one is primarily visiting the British capital to enjoy theatre, but you definitely may want to allow plenty of time to truly enjoy a lavish restaurant like VIVI. It’s great for either a pre-theatre dinner or a more relaxed meal when you simply want to treat yourself after a busy day of sightseeing or shopping in London.

Do not let the Centre Point building deceive you. On the surface, the Centre Point building looks like a typical “mid-century” high-rise building one might find on New York’s East Side. For Americans wanting to experience something authentically British, Centre Point may remind one too much of any 1960s building back in the States, but don’t be too quick to make a judgment because VIVI is the ultimate in retro British chic. A fun fact: the name VIVI pays homage to the roman numerals for 1966, the year Centre Point was built.

It was a rainy June evening and we had a tight curtain time (7pm for The Lehman Trilogy) so we stopped by VIVI a bit early at 5:15pm to eat. A kind and friendly young woman greeted us at the front door and told us it was fine to head upstairs to the dining room, even though our reservation was not until 5:30pm.

We were enthralled with the place from the moment we stepped into the dining room, with pink-hued marble floors, bar stools in teal leather and lots of polished wood, like something from a glorious retro-futuristic James Bond film.

We had the pleasure of being served by general manager Troy Dalton, a charming Australian with matinee-idol looks and lots of enthusiasm about the restaurant. He answered all our questions about the restaurant and its delightful menu.

VIVI offers both a set menu (£21.5 for one course; £24.5 for three, with a glass of prosecco) and an a la carte menu. The set menu features such starters as chicken and ham terrine with piccalilli and grilled sourdough; pea and mint soup with a cheese straw; and beetroot and goat’s cheese salad with orange and candied walnuts. Mains include chicken tikka masala with Bombay potato and raita; VIVI fishcake with a poached egg, mushy peas and tartar sauce; broad bean and asparagus gnocchi with Berkswell cheese and preserved lemon. Desserts range from rum baba with vanilla ice cream and confit orange to a Colston Bassett cheese with seasonal chutney.

My dining partner started off with a non-alcoholic cocktail called “Pomegranate and Cranberry Fizz,” a refreshing blend of cranberry juice, pomegranate, lime, sugar and soda water (£7). I had a nice dry glass of red wine.

We were tempted to try the “Nibbles” like the coronation chicken beignet or cauliflower cheese croquettes, but decided instead to both enjoy the classic prawn cocktail, served with brown bread and butter. In the U.S., prawn or shrimp cocktails usually mean the prawns will be served over a big cup of American-style cocktail sauce (usually ketchup and horseradish). At VIVI, the prawn cocktail is served with prawns on top of a heap of Marie Rose sauce, a British concoction normally made of ketchup, mayonnaise, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, etc.; in the U.S., it is similar to Thousand Island dressing. The prawns were fresh and firm as they should be. Other starters include a Caesar salad, chopped salad, hot smoked salmon and a beetroot and goat cheese salad.

We were especially excited about the mains, from the Berkshire pork chop to classic English fish and chips, chicken Kiev and most important, the steak selection. All the beef is from the Ayrshire Coast in Scotland and dry aged for 38 days by the butcher HG Walters. Fillet, rib eye and rump steak are available and we were so glad we chose the fillet (£36).  It was 250g of some of the best, most succulent steak we’ve had anywhere, served with roast garlic and water cress. Three sauces are served (£1.5); Béarnaise, chimichurri and peppercorn, and all three were outstanding but we did not need much sauce because the steak was so excellent on its own.

VIVI also has great sides to go with its grilled steaks, all at £4.5 each. Some of the choices include truffle mac and cheese; crisp leaf salad with house dressing; green beans with shallot and hazelnuts. We chose the Jersey royal potatoes with parsley and the garlic mushrooms. The potatoes and mushrooms were both delicious.

Unfortunately, because of our early curtain, we did not have time to indulge in the desserts but they all sounded scrumptious, from the apple and plum crumble (£8.5) to the “after eight,” with a chocolate biscuit, dark chocolate mousse and mint ice cream (£8.5).

If you’re visiting London soon, be sure to add VIVI to your list of “musts” whether you are planning a pre-theatre meal, a special occasion, or just a fun night out. VIVI’s beef fillet is certainly one of the best you’ll ever taste and we cannot wait to go back to VIVI soon.

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published July 3, 2019
Reviewed on June 12, 2019 in London

VIVI: The sleek bar. Photo: Courtesy of VIVI.

VIVI: Succulent fillet steak with grilled garlic and, in background, Jersey potatoes. Photo: Scott Harrah

VIVI: Pomegranate and Cranberry Fizz non-alcoholic cocktail. Photo: Scott Harrah

‘VIVI’: Bread & butter & fabulous courgette fries. Photo: Scott Harrah

VIVI: The Liquid Lounge. Photo: Courtesy of VIVI.

VIVI: Cocktails & bar bites. Photo: Courtesy of VIVI.

VIVI: Sticky toffee pudding, a classic British dessert. Photo: Courtesy of VIVI.

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JIDORI: The many culinary delights available at Jidori in London’s Covent Garden. Photo: Courtesy of Jidori

JIDORI
15 Catherine St.
Covent Garden
London WC2B 5JZ, UK
https://www.jidori.co.uk/

By Scott Harrah

LONDON–Looking for something unique to eat between West End shows while visiting London? Jidori in Covent Garden offers a unique twist on Japanese food with which most Americans might be unfamiliar. Yakatori is, as the restaurant menu says, “Japanese drinking food designed to share.”

We stopped by Jidori Covent Garden before a show for a quick bite and were immediately greeted by the cheerful, lovely Amelia. Jidori has another location in Dalston (Northeast London) and the Covent Garden restaurant is located on three floors of a building near all the theatres. It is a sleek spot with tasteful minimalist décor. At 5:30pm, the place seemed a bit empty for the pre-theatre crowd, but our charming hostess Amelia assured us that the place would soon be packed. She said the clientele is rather eclectic and, despite its proximity to Theatreland, Jidori is more of a hip spot for millennials than theatregoers. She was absolutely right about the crowd because, by 6pm, the place was already getting packed with young folks, sipping sake or beer and ordering various plates of exotic Japanese treats. Jidori also has a private karaoke room available for £30 an hour.

We started out with the lovely, crunchy house pickles of various vegetables (£ 5) and “Otsumami” (small plates designed for drinking and sharing). Our first plate was sashimi (featuring salmon, yellowtail and tuna) for £14. The salmon and tuna were particularly fresh and the tuna was the most flavorful, tasting a bit like filet mignon. All three went great with the shino, wasabi and pickled ginger that was served with all the fish.

We also enjoyed the Katsu scotch egg, a deep-fried concoction made of minced chicken and served with a slightly spicy Japanese curry sauce (£6). It’s a new spin on comfort food, Japanese-style. Next, we ate “Gyoza,” (£9), which are light prawn dumplings served with black vinegar.

JIDORI: Tsukune (minced chicken, egg yolk & tare). Photo: Courtesy of Jidori

Next we tried “Kushiyaki” (vegetable and meat skewers grilled over charcoal) and “Yakitori” (corn-fed chicken skewers grilled over charcoal). All the chicken is free range and corn-fed, skewered and cooked on Jidori’s custom-made Japanese grill. Our favorites included “Kamo” (£6.5) which is a duck breast lightly seasoned with onion and orange, as well as “Tsukune” (£5.5), an interesting concoction of rather salty minced chicken, egg yolk and tare (a thick, sweet soy sauce).

The “Tabasaki,” (£4.8) consisted of chicken wings, lemon and togarashi (a Japanese chili pepper). This was a different taste for us, since chicken wings are such a staple of the American diet and we’re more used to spicy buffalo wings served with hot sauce, blue cheese dressing and celery. “Tabasaki” is much lighter than American versions of chicken wings but equally spicy.

To cleanse our palates after nibbling on all these spicy delights, we split a dish of ginger ice cream (£6) with miso caramel and sweet potato crisps, and it was light and fresh, with just the right amount of sweetness.

Jidori is certainly a place for adventurous eaters looking for something out of the ordinary in London. If you’re simply looking for sushi or tempura shrimp, you might be disappointed but keep in mind that real Japanese cuisine is more than raw fish, teriyaki chicken and bowls of noodles. Jidori offers a very light yet delightful meal for anyone wishing to share drinks and Japanese culinary treats with friends or family while visiting London.

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published July 3, 2019
Reviewed on June 13, 2019 in London

JIDORI: Ginger ice cream with miso caramel & sweet potato crisps. Photo: Scott Harrah

JIDORI: Full plates available at the Covent Garden hotspot. Photo: Courtesy of Jidori.

JIDORI: Interior shot of the Covent Garden location. The restaurant draws a young crowd anxious to enjoy drinks & otsumami ‘designed for drinking & sharing.’ Photo: Courtesy of Jidori

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THE IVY MARKET GRILL
1 Henrietta Street
London WC2E 8PS
United Kingdom
44 20 3301 0200, https://theivymarketgrill.com/

By Scott Harrah

LONDON–The Ivy Market Grill is an upmarket institution in the theatre district of London. It’s a great place to stop for a delicious meal and fine cocktails and wine before catching a West End Show.

You will be charmed by British brasserie’s elegant ambiance and eclectic menu. One can choose to sit right outside in Covent Garden overlooking the famous piazza, but it was a typical rainy early June evening in London so we ate indoors in the simple but elegant dining room.

We started with an appetizer that was not on the pre-theatre menu: zucchini fritti, consisting of French-fried, crispy courgette (shoestring zucchini fries as we call them in the States) served with lemon, mint and chili yogurt sauce. We’re used to heavily battered vegetable tempura back in New York, but the version here is lighter, with very light breading, allowing the flavor of the zucchini to be fully enjoyed without overpowering oil.

I chose the steak tartare as a second appetizer. This consisted of hand-chopped rare beef sirloin with a Tabasco mustard dressing, cornichons, shallot, parsley, egg yolk and toasted granary bread and toasted granary bread (an English bread containing both white and whole wheat flour).

For the main course, we both chose the steak, egg and thick-cut chips from the pre-theatre menu. chose the chargrilled minute steak available on the pre-theatre menu. It is described as a “thinly beaten rump steak” with a fried egg. It tasted like a thin sirloin cut of meat, with garlic butter, thick cut chips and watercress for £3.50 supplement. It was perfectly cooked at medium rare as requested, and filling but not too heavy (a plus before heading to the theatre, when one does not want to be too full). This tender steak was great with a glass of bold wine.

For dessert, we chose the strawberry ice cream from the pre-theatre menu. It was scrumptious with pistachios and a unique white chocolate sauce. This went great with a cup of café Americano and a decadently sweet glass of Moscato wine.

The Ivy Market Grill is part of the renowned Ivy Collection of establishments and was one of our favorite pre-theatre restaurants in London. Two courses for pre-theatre dinner is £ 16.50; £ 21 for three.

If you are heading to a West End show, you cannot go wrong with this elegant establishment in the picturesque Covent Garden area of London.

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published June 30, 2019
Reviewed on June 11, 2019 in London

Steak tartare (hand-chopped rare beef sirloin with a Tabasco mustard dressing, cornichons, shallot, parsley, egg yolk) at Ivy Market Grill. Photo: Scott Harrah

Zucchini fritti, consisting of French-fried, crispy courgette. served with lemon, mint and chili yogurt sauce at Ivy Market Grill. Photo: Scott Harrah

Chargrilled minute steak, available on the pre-theatre menu at Ivy Market Grill. Photo: Scott Harrah

Ice cream served with fresh strawberries and a white chocolate sauce. Photo: Scott Harrah

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DIM SUM DECADENCE: A selection of three types of dim sum stuffed with prawns & more. Photo: Scott Harrah

BaoziInn
24 Romilly Street
London, United Kingdom
W1D 5AH
02017 287 3266
www.baoziinn.com

By Scott Harrah

Being native New Yorkers, we’re quite familiar with Chinese foods of all types (or so we think). In fact, “Chinese” food is part of any New Yorker’s diet, from Kung Pao chicken, General Tso’s chicken to chicken with broccoli with garlic sauce, sweet and sour pork, etc. We are used to American-style “Chinese” foods that have been adjusted for the American palate, and it seems many Chinese restaurants in New York City do booming business with chicken and ribs with hot sauce because that’s what New Yorkers crave the most, but it’s not really “Chinese food” at all. Chinese food in New York usually means Americanized take-out places, or for the adventurous, more authentic Chinese places along Canal Street in Chinatown, the kind with Peking duck hanging in the window, and menu items like squab (a nice word for “pigeon”) and chicken’s feet, the type of cuisine that is a bit too exotic for New Yorkers and tourists alike. On our annual visit to London to review West End shows and pre-theatre restaurants, we were offered the chance to sample this bona fide restaurant boasting “Northern Chinese street food” and the first in London to offer “Cantonese Dim Sum with Szechuan and Hunan influences.” It was a brilliant new experience from start to finish.

From the moment one enters the converted corner town house on Romilly Street in Soho, one knows BaoziInn is not your ordinary Asian restaurant. The gracious, charming manager Med Pang met us at the door, showed us to a table and immediately started explaining the unique menu. It’s rare to get this type of service in London but at BaoziInn, you are truly treated as family. As small as the place is, it is certainly cozy, with Georgian sash windows, Asian lanterns and decorative shutters. BaoziInn, which means “people’s canteen” in Chinese, is brought to us by Wei Shao, who made a name on the London restaurant scene with Barshu, a popular Szechuan hotspot.

The food is created by Head Chef Francis Law, a Cantonese cook and dim sum expert, who has worked at Ting Tai Fung in Macao, Zen Chinese Culture in Hong Kong, and China Dream in London.

We had no idea what to order—it all looked so scrumptious—so the warm, magnanimous Med Pang brought us out a nice selection of prawn dim sum (since we don’t eat pork). We started with three steaming bamboo bowls containing Ruby Prawn Dumplings (in a savory beetroot pastry), Prawn and Chive Dumpling in a Spinach Juice Pastry, Watercress Prawn Dumpling in a Turmeric Spice Pastry and Prawn Toast. All of the dim sum was presented beautifully and each had a distinct flavor. One may also try dim sum made with Chili Pork Baozi, Pork and Prawn “Shao Mai” in Spanish Juice Pastry, Cuttlefish ‘Shao Mai” in Chili Juice Pastry, Szechuan Style Steamed Phoenix Claws, and more.

The dim sum is reasonably priced, with each dish £3.50 for lunch and £4.50 for dinner. The bar also has a nice selection of world wines and handpicked beers.

In addition, we enjoyed a type of “prawn brioche” that was basically a warm French-style roll with a big prawn inside, cut in half so it would be easier to eat. Outstanding!

We were curious to see the Chinese take on “kebabs” so we tried the Sirloin Steak Skewer with black pepper sauce, Chicken Skewer with caramelized sauce, and the King Prawn Skewer with caramelized sauce as well. All were perfectly cooked and the sauce complimented the meat and prawns beautifully.

Just as we were feeling quite full, Mr. Pang came out and insisted we try the Dan Dan Noodles (with a spicy sauce with preserved vegetables like mustard stems, chili oil, Szechuan pepper and scallions served over the noodles). The classic wonton prawn was also delicious. We were stuffed to the gills and could not eat another bite, even though the food is all so light and made without the MSG so common in American versions of Chinese food. The food is all fresh and made without artificial food coloring and less sugar, and does not have the “heavy” consistency of Chinese food in America. This is one of our favorite Chinese restaurants in not only London, but the entire world. If you planning a visit to London this year, Baozilnn should be at the top of your list of “must visit” restaurants. We cannot wait to return.

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published July 5, 2018
Reviewed on June 22, 2018 in London

For reservations, please email romillyst@baoziinn.com

SUCCULENT SKEWERS (left to right) Fresh prawns, beef & chicken. Photo: Scott Harrah

PRAWN BRIOCHE: Tender prawns served in brioche-style dumpling roll. Photo: Scott Harrah

NOODLE PARADISE: A savory selection of various noodle dishes available. Photo: Courtesy of Baoziinn

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FOXLOW SOHO: Casual interior of the restaurant. Photo: Courtesy of Foxlow Soho

FOXLOW SOHO
8-10 Lower James Street
London, United Kingdom
W1F 9EL
020 7680 2710
www.foxlow.co.uk

By Scott Harrah

We’re huge fans of the Hawksmoor chain of British steakhouses throughout the U.K. so we jumped at the chance to dine at Foxlow Soho, brought to you by Will Beckett and Huw Gott, the two men who founded Hawksmoor. Foxlow Soho claims it serves the same British produce and meats that Hawksmoor does, but has a more relaxed, casual ambience and food that caters a bit more to the health-conscious millennial crowd at a more affordable price (the average cost of dinner for two with drinks is £50 to £70). The décor has a slight American diner vibe as well.

The menu is a bit different than the Hawksmoor restaurants. Yes, you will find steaks and seafood, but also healthier alternatives like chicken burgers and vegan options like spice-roasted cauliflower with chickpeas, wilted spinach and curried aubergine (eggplant) sauce.

Our server suggested the spice-roasted cauliflower as a starter, and it was a great choice, the spice and curried aubergine brought out the flavor of the cauliflower and the chick peas gave it a Middle Eastern touch.

Next we opted for the kale, avocado and fresh herb salad with toasted seeds. This was a delightfully summery concoction, with huge, crunchy kale and the light consistency of the avocado. My dining partner chose the five-pepper Brixham squid with a tangy deviled mayonnaise. He said the squid was tender, not overcooked and the peppers and mayo helped enhance the flavor of the squid.

For the main course, we both decided on steak. I had the sirloin, dry-aged for 30 days, while my partner chose the ribeye, also dry-aged for 30 days. When one is used to great American steaks like we are, it is always a risky selection ordering beef abroad. We have had great British steaks at the Hawksmoor and also at many restaurants on the continent. My sirloin, served medium rare as I like it, was bold and nicely marbled, but a bit too tough for what I’m used to. My partner was underwhelmed by his ribeye because he said it was full of gristle. However, we were able to enjoy our steaks regardless with some tasty HP sauce and also tucked into the deliciously salty chips (fries).

One wonders if Foxlow’s other meat mains, including Merrifield Farm chicken breast or Dingley Dell pork ribeye, might be better choices than the beef. Chicken and beef burgers are also available, as well as a set menu.

For dessert, we decided to split one of our favorite British sweets, sticky toffee pudding with clotted cream. Foxlow’s sticky toffee pudding is decadent indeed, and finished off the meal quite nicely with a steaming cup of café Americano.

Foxlow also has a number of innovative cocktails available as well as an extensive wine list. If you are in the Soho area, wanting a quick bite before a West End show that won’t break the budget, Foxlow is a good choice.

Open for Brunch, Lunch and Dinner. For bookings, email soho@foxlow.com or please visit https://www.foxlow.co.uk/

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published July 5, 2018
Reviewed on June 23, 2018 in London

SPICE-ROASTED CAULIFLOWER: With chick peas. Photo: Scott Harrah

CHOICE STARTERS: (Top) Five-pepper Brixham squid with a tangy deviled mayonnaise. (Bottom) Kale, avocado & fresh herb salad with toasted seeds. Photo: Scott Harrah

STEAKS & CHIPS: The dry-aged sirloin (front) and ribeye (back) served with mushrooms & great salty chips (fries). Photo: Scott Harrah

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