BaoziInn: Dim sum delights | London Dining

DIM SUM DECADENCE: A selection of three types of dim sum stuffed with prawns & more. Photo: Scott Harrah

BaoziInn
24 Romilly Street
London, United Kingdom
W1D 5AH
02017 287 3266
www.baoziinn.com

By Scott Harrah

Being native New Yorkers, we’re quite familiar with Chinese foods of all types (or so we think). In fact, “Chinese” food is part of any New Yorker’s diet, from Kung Pao chicken, General Tso’s chicken to chicken with broccoli with garlic sauce, sweet and sour pork, etc. We are used to American-style “Chinese” foods that have been adjusted for the American palate, and it seems many Chinese restaurants in New York City do booming business with chicken and ribs with hot sauce because that’s what New Yorkers crave the most, but it’s not really “Chinese food” at all. Chinese food in New York usually means Americanized take-out places, or for the adventurous, more authentic Chinese places along Canal Street in Chinatown, the kind with Peking duck hanging in the window, and menu items like squab (a nice word for “pigeon”) and chicken’s feet, the type of cuisine that is a bit too exotic for New Yorkers and tourists alike. On our annual visit to London to review West End shows and pre-theatre restaurants, we were offered the chance to sample this bona fide restaurant boasting “Northern Chinese street food” and the first in London to offer “Cantonese Dim Sum with Szechuan and Hunan influences.” It was a brilliant new experience from start to finish.

From the moment one enters the converted corner town house on Romilly Street in Soho, one knows BaoziInn is not your ordinary Asian restaurant. The gracious, charming manager Med Pang met us at the door, showed us to a table and immediately started explaining the unique menu. It’s rare to get this type of service in London but at BaoziInn, you are truly treated as family. As small as the place is, it is certainly cozy, with Georgian sash windows, Asian lanterns and decorative shutters. BaoziInn, which means “people’s canteen” in Chinese, is brought to us by Wei Shao, who made a name on the London restaurant scene with Barshu, a popular Szechuan hotspot.

The food is created by Head Chef Francis Law, a Cantonese cook and dim sum expert, who has worked at Ting Tai Fung in Macao, Zen Chinese Culture in Hong Kong, and China Dream in London.

We had no idea what to order—it all looked so scrumptious—so the warm, magnanimous Med Pang brought us out a nice selection of prawn dim sum (since we don’t eat pork). We started with three steaming bamboo bowls containing Ruby Prawn Dumplings (in a savory beetroot pastry), Prawn and Chive Dumpling in a Spinach Juice Pastry, Watercress Prawn Dumpling in a Turmeric Spice Pastry and Prawn Toast. All of the dim sum was presented beautifully and each had a distinct flavor. One may also try dim sum made with Chili Pork Baozi, Pork and Prawn “Shao Mai” in Spanish Juice Pastry, Cuttlefish ‘Shao Mai” in Chili Juice Pastry, Szechuan Style Steamed Phoenix Claws, and more.

The dim sum is reasonably priced, with each dish £3.50 for lunch and £4.50 for dinner. The bar also has a nice selection of world wines and handpicked beers.

In addition, we enjoyed a type of “prawn brioche” that was basically a warm French-style roll with a big prawn inside, cut in half so it would be easier to eat. Outstanding!

We were curious to see the Chinese take on “kebabs” so we tried the Sirloin Steak Skewer with black pepper sauce, Chicken Skewer with caramelized sauce, and the King Prawn Skewer with caramelized sauce as well. All were perfectly cooked and the sauce complimented the meat and prawns beautifully.

Just as we were feeling quite full, Mr. Pang came out and insisted we try the Dan Dan Noodles (with a spicy sauce with preserved vegetables like mustard stems, chili oil, Szechuan pepper and scallions served over the noodles). The classic wonton prawn was also delicious. We were stuffed to the gills and could not eat another bite, even though the food is all so light and made without the MSG so common in American versions of Chinese food. The food is all fresh and made without artificial food coloring and less sugar, and does not have the “heavy” consistency of Chinese food in America. This is one of our favorite Chinese restaurants in not only London, but the entire world. If you planning a visit to London this year, Baozilnn should be at the top of your list of “must visit” restaurants. We cannot wait to return.

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published July 5, 2018
Reviewed on June 22, 2018 in London

For reservations, please email romillyst@baoziinn.com

SUCCULENT SKEWERS (left to right) Fresh prawns, beef & chicken. Photo: Scott Harrah

PRAWN BRIOCHE: Tender prawns served in brioche-style dumpling roll. Photo: Scott Harrah

NOODLE PARADISE: A savory selection of various noodle dishes available. Photo: Courtesy of Baoziinn