Afternoon tea with a twist at the Perception Bar at W London Leicester Square | London Dining

TEA TOTAL
W London Hotel
The Perception at W London
10 Wardour Street
London, United Kingdom
W1D 6QF
www.theperceptionbar.com/

By Scott Harrah

The concept of “tea” as any type of meal is rather exotic to Americans. While “afternoon tea,” “high tea” and “low tea” are served in the British Isles and Commonwealth nations like Canada and Australia, the concept of a light daytime snack of tea, sandwiches, cakes and cookies has never really been part of American culture. So we were excited but a bit unaware of what to expect when we decided to review “Tea Total” at the trendy Perception Bar at the W Hotel in London’s Leicester Square. We were in for a pleasant and luxurious surprise indeed.

Described in a hotel flyer as “a tipsy twist on the afternoon tea,” this “remix” of the traditional daytime break is certainly unique. Yes, there are scones, clotted cream and jam and sandwiches included as well as a pot of English tea, but that’s about the only conventional aspect of afternoon tea at the W. A wide selection of English Garden-inspired sweets are paired with a chilled glass of Prosecco and “crystalized” versions of the hotel’s signature cocktails.

The waiter brought out a sleek, dark box full of drawers and hidden doors. On top of the box was a colorful collection of shot glasses containing various cocktails to be sampled with the various goodies inside.

The first treat is the Spring Planter, a mint-flavored, chocolate mousse-filled pot with “popping candy dirt” and “micro cress herbs,” served with the Banana Republic cocktail (a mixture of Belvedere vodka, apricot liqueur, banana, cinnamon, apricot jam, sage and lime).

Next is the Queen Bee, a white chocolate-covered sponge cake that is layered with lemon thyme, avocado, pistachio, locally sourced honey and covered with pandan icing and bee pollen. This is presented with the Hayfever cocktail (Belvedere vodka, manzana verde liqueur, cucumber, coriander, simple syrup and lemon, topped off with the shell of a pill, like an ad for Valley of the Dolls).

One of the more unusual treats is the Dew Drop, with a clear tomato, rose water and Tonka on a bed of Oreo and coffee soil. The Purple Rain cocktail (Bombay Sapphire Gin, Lychee Liqueur, Violette Liqueur, Violette Pearls, elderflower, cranberry, lemon) is served with this creation.

The final surprise is Every Cloud, a layer of carrot and cardamom cake served between two meringue clouds. The Pull The Pin cocktail (Patron Silver Tequila, Aperol, maraschino, strawberry, agave and lime) is served with this.

Of all the treats, the first three were the best. We especially enjoyed the Queen Bee cake and Dew Drop (who knew a tomato could go so well with crushed Oreos?) We wished the last surprise would have been something more exciting than meringue, but we know the egg-white concoction is popular in Europe. The Pull The Pin cocktail was a bit overpowering with the tequila but certainly different.

The scones were particularly tasty, as were the little sandwiches, including the roast beef with Dijon mayo on onion bread, smoked salmon with cream cheese on cranberry bread, and egg mayo with watercress on hazelnut and apricot sourdough bread.

Granted, Tea Total at the W is rather boozy for an afternoon tea, especially if one opts to also have the Prosecco, but so what? It is certainly an innovative way to spend an afternoon in London if one doesn’t have a West End matinee to see and one is too tired to shop or sightsee. While enjoying the cocktails, tea and treats, it’s fun gazing at the unique décor of the bar, complete with a collection of dishes featuring British celebrities, all arranged in the shape of the Union Jack. You’re in for lots of fun guessing who the celebrities are on the plates while savoring your tea, cocktails and goodies.

Edited by Scott Harrah
Published July 2, 2018
Reviewed on June 22, 2018 in London

Served from 1pm to 5pm daily. Bookings: theperception@whotels.com
0207 758 1060. £37 per person
 or £42 per person with a glass of Prosecco.

BRITISH SUMMERTIME BLISS: (left to right) Spring Planter, Queen Bee & the Dew Drop at W Hotel’s afternoon tea. Photo: Courtesy of W London.

TEA TIME SHOTS: Assortment of colorful cocktail shots. Photo: Courtesy of W London

SEASONAL DELIGHTS: Queen Bee, Every Cloud, Dew Drop & Prosecco at W London for afternoon tea. Photo: Courtesy of W London

TEA TIME COCKTAILS (left to right) Purple Rain, Pull the Pin, Hayfever & Banana Republic shots. Photo: Courtesy of W London

COOL BRITTANIA: Plates featuring British celebrities, arranged on shelves representing the Union Jack. Photo: Scott Harrah